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Routes in The Blob - West Face

Beginner's One T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beginner's Twenty-six T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beginner's Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Berkeley Dyke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dialing For Ducats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hobbit Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety In Numbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Smear Tactics T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swagger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,301 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is only somewhat similar to Beginner's Two, but perhaps easier due to the lack of a steep 'pod' as had by it's neighbor. On the West Face of The Blob, there is an obvious crack on the upper half. Scramble up to this crack via a low-angle slab; mind the scaling rock, it can crumble. Access the crack, place some pro and climb to the top. The route is 5.3 or so, yes, but not sewn up and there is a little scaling on the bottom half- not the best intro to leading.

Protection

Carry a light standard rack.Maybe S? The climbing is mostly hikable, but that doesn't mean that it is well protected. Maybe not the best first lead for a neophyte climber.

Photos

B. L.
5.4 R
B. L.  
5.4 R
Unless you're happy soloing up, be prepared to leave webbing to rap down on for the descent. The downclimb looks almost as hard as the climb up. Not difficult - but if you fall - you may well die. It seems left anchors are regularly removed which is a shame considering this rock is well suited to beginners :( Sep 13, 2016
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
 
I am not a free-soloist by any means, but I ended up soloing this route 3 times on my last trip. Each move felt 100% secure and reversible, yet the exposure lent the climb some excitement. Hard to beat the view from the top as well! Recommended as a first solo (if you know how to jam), and much more secure than Beginner's Two. Jun 3, 2016
Cron
Barrington, NH
  5.3 R
Cron   Barrington, NH
  5.3 R
My first solo. Chill walk off decent near the Bong at the north end of the Blob. Keep bolts off this thing. Jan 24, 2016
dstandish
Los Angeles
dstandish   Los Angeles
This was a fun little adventure. Body anchor at the top. As for the descent, I suggest going left and descending via the north face downclimb. We ended up doing a short rap to get to the top of the north face. But the Vogel book says there is a downclimb to get to that spot. Mar 31, 2012
HTP
Longmont, CO
 
HTP   Longmont, CO
 
The descent is tougher than the climb. Mar 30, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Crack would protect fine for a new leader, getting to the crack might be spicy for them (but easier than the crack, you essentially walk up low angle slabby terrain). The crack is good quality climbing, but woefully short, even by JT standards. The Bong is a better route of similar character and a better route for new leaders.

Descend by walking climbers' right to the right end of the formation then down low angle ledgy terrain following the path of least resistance to the top of a short chimney with an old bolt sleeve (no bolt) at the top. Worm down the very slick water polished chimney. Jan 10, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun route for the beginner, soloist. Sep 23, 2006