Green Route 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Jan 11, 2007 |
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The short yet fun open book of the second pitch.
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Description This is the best of the Green Corner routes, unfortunately the fun climbing is over almost as soon as it starts. Because of the long traverse, the climb is usually split into two pitches. If you've already climbed Triple Overhangs and Green Gremlin and don't want to repeat the start for the third time, you can rappel from a pine tree at the top of the cliff to the base of the open book. Climb the left side of the block to the large ledge below the Green Gremlin corner. Traverse right along the ledge for about 60 feet to the base of a short open book and belay here. Climb the short dihedral with the nice finger crack. The crux is exiting the corner where there are two options - left or right. Look for a great hold up and over the top and pull yourself over. Fun climb, too bad it's so short.
To descend, either rappel from trees at the top or walk off left.
Location This shares the start with Triple Overhangs and Green Gremlin right of the tree trunk and up the left side of a large block.
Protection Light rack with small to medium gear.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back along the traverse section that leads...
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By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Nov 17, 2009
| I really enjoyed this whole route and think that the first pitch is very worthwhile and fun. The traverse over to the open book section is a lot cooler than it looks from the ground. |
By AndyGriffin
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.5
| A good, fun route. The traverse around the corner isn't hard, but it is freaky. If you're leading, be sure to place some gear after the corner for your second. The second pitch is fun, but it's short.
The whole thing can be done in 1 pitch if you use long runners and are careful with where you place gear. |
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.5
| Perfect introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Short, easy, and fun. Wish that open book would never end, but unfortunately it is over before you know it. Two options for the top out: To the left is easier. To the right (in a small barely-finger crack) is more exposed. Love this route if for no other reason than it was my first trad lead! |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Dec 2, 2012
| How would you toprope the last pitch of this? |
By jim.dangle
Dec 3, 2012
| Just build an anchor at the top off trees (if I remember correctly), and then belay from the top.
Jim |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Dec 3, 2012
| I didn't see any good-sized trees last time I was there. |
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.5
| The tree at the top is pretty beat up from top-ropes and anchors. A better option is to build a gear anchor in the bomber horizontal on the step behind the (dead) tree IMHO. |
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