Graue Wand (Niedermann) 5c+
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 11 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||Max Niedermann|
|Season: ||As long as the Furka pass is open|
|Submitted By: ||Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011|
Pitch seven of Niedermann (5b)
A mega classic, one of the most famous granite climbs in Switzerland, and an absoluteley brilliant line from start to finish, with a consistent level of difficulty and a great top-out.
The pitches go at 5c, 5c, 5c+, 5b, 4c, 4a, 5b, 4b, 5c, 5c, 5a. We found the crux over a bulge early in the second pitch to be the most difficult part of the climb.
The route is on the right side of the wall, and as with other routes on the right side, begins behind the prominent pillar that divides the left and right sides of the wall. Approach from the right side of the pillar. There is often a sizeable and steep snow field to ascend. Accordingly, it is advisable to bring proper boots, at least one axe and one pair of crampons. In the steep gully behind the pillar, there are fixed routes to facilitate the scramble up to the routes.
Descent is by abseil (2x50m ropes) via dedicated abseilpiste (not back down the route).
All belays have been re-equipped, and there are several bolts in each of the pitches (the first pitch, 5c, has the least amount of in-situ material, with just two bolts over 30 meters). As the route follows one bomber crack system after another, it is possible to place gear everywhere. A full set of cams and stoppers is recommended.
|Photos of Graue Wand (Niedermann) 5c+ Slideshow
Pitch two of Niedermann (5c)
Pitch nine of Niedermann (5c)
Pitch one of the Niedermann (5c)