L to R R to L Alpha
A mega classic, one of the most famous granite climbs in Switzerland, and an absoluteley brilliant line from start to finish, with a consistent level of difficulty and a great top-out.
The route is on the right side of the wall, and as with other routes on the right side, begins behind the prominent pillar that divides the left and right sides of the wall. Approach from the right side of the pillar. There is often a sizeable and steep snow field to ascend. Accordingly, it is advisable to bring proper boots, at least one axe and one pair of crampons. In the steep gully behind the pillar, there are fixed routes to facilitate the scramble up to the routes.
All belays have been re-equipped, and there are several bolts in each of the pitches (the first pitch, 5c, has the least amount of in-situ material, with just two bolts over 30 meters). As the route follows one bomber crack system after another, it is possible to place gear everywhere. A full set of cams and stoppers is recommended.