Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Claude & Yves Remy|
|Page Views:||596 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011|
DescriptionOne of the most famous and popular climbs in the area, and a classic from the Remy Brothers, Conquest is defined by a perfectly parallel vertical crack in the upper wall. The sixth pitch (6a+) and crux seventh pitch (7a) ascend this crack system. The 7a is markedly harder than the rest of the route, and can be avoided by climbing a flake and chimney to the right of the crack (part of the neighboring Rote Platten route, graded 5b). After the crux pitch, the remainder of the route is somewhat anticlimactic, with an awkward pitch on shallow, flaring cracks and a final, moderate pitch that ends before gaining the ridge.
The grading on all pitches, and in particular the first and the second-last pitch, might be considered stiff. A topo can be found in the Uri Excellence SAC guidebook or Extrem Ost.
P1 6a+ Demanding finger crack to chimney, not to be underestimated!
P2-4 5a-5b Pick way up the moderate slabs
P5 6c The perfect face climbing pitch. Gear protection for the crux moves.
P6 6a+ The angle kicks back and the supercrack starts! Solid jams but strenuous still.
P7 7a Supercrack. 10 m of perfect hands to 15 m of offwidth and com- pression. Older bolts protect some of the crux, but you likely will want a good selection of gear.
P8 6a+ Jam on for another 40 m, less steep but no gimme.
P9 5b 40 m to the top.
LocationThe route is roughly in the center of the left half of the wall. It is not marked, but can be located by the sweeping left-facing dihedral of P1, clearly visible from the approach. A second, smaller dihedral mirrors P1 to the right.
Also, as the route is quite popular, one can often simply follow the footsteps in the snowfield at the base of the wall, looking for a very inviting corner in a section of the wall with light-grey rock.
Descent is by abseil down the route.
ProtectionAnchors are recently (in 2015) re-bolted and there are several bolts on every pitch. Given the sustained nature of the climbing, it is highly advisable to bring a full rack (doubles to 3 will be useful).
When you look at the bolts next to the cracks remember, the goal of new routers is to have fun in the mountains, Swiss style. Feel free to skip the bolts....