East Face South Side or Left
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.9 from 103 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 11,060 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | Warren Teissier on Sep 26, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a great climb on great rock. Although, it may at times be difficult to protect.
Follow the approach description that leads to the southern end of the East Face (from Royal Arch).
The climb starts in an alcove on the Southern-most end of the East face. Scramble up and right until you come across a left angling crack/strata.
Follow this toward the south edge of the East Face to a comfortable ledge. At this point the face steepens and you have to negotiate 15 feet of harder climbing (5.5) as you overcome the headwall. Note that exposure here is large and a fall could leave you dangling over the South face (assuming you are roped...).
Once over the headwall, things ease up. Head up and right passing just above the catscratches until you reach the northern ridge of the East Face near the summit.
This ridge is beautiful and is the perfect place for a picture if you cared to carry a camera all the way up here. The summit is a few feet further to the south.
Rappel, from an eyebolt, 75 overhanging feet to the North.
Follow the approach description that leads to the southern end of the East Face (from Royal Arch).
The climb starts in an alcove on the Southern-most end of the East face. Scramble up and right until you come across a left angling crack/strata.
Follow this toward the south edge of the East Face to a comfortable ledge. At this point the face steepens and you have to negotiate 15 feet of harder climbing (5.5) as you overcome the headwall. Note that exposure here is large and a fall could leave you dangling over the South face (assuming you are roped...).
Once over the headwall, things ease up. Head up and right passing just above the catscratches until you reach the northern ridge of the East Face near the summit.
This ridge is beautiful and is the perfect place for a picture if you cared to carry a camera all the way up here. The summit is a few feet further to the south.
Rappel, from an eyebolt, 75 overhanging feet to the North.
8 Comments