Type: Trad, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,898 total · 28/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a long and beautiful moderate route you won't have to wait in line for. Take the first approach along the edge of the Tangen Tower to the base. The route begins in a wide crack about 20 feet left of a huge tree filled gash. The route can be done as 6 long pitches, though I did it in 7 because of paranoia after running out of rope just short of a tree on pitch 3.

Climb up the crack for 30 feet, and then move left on to the face left of the crack. 4 long pitches climbing mostly left of the wide crack reach the ridge. The crux is a fun crack on the second pitch.

After gaining the ridge, two long pitches traverse left along the crest to the top. These pitches are easy 5th class, but are incredibly exposed and absolutely gorgeous. Your second should be solid because the traversing pitches are hard to protect, and a huge swing is possible.

This is a great route - totally solid rock, very little lichen, and good sustained climbing for about 850 feet.

Protection

The gear is pretty sparse. A set of stoppers and some cams is plenty. I placed everything from a black Alien to a #4 Friend, but rarely more than 3 pieces on a pitch.

Photos