|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dylan Weldin on Mar 27, 2013|
|Comments on Double Exposure Direct||Add Comment|
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By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2013
If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the chance, I'll put new chains up there.
Next time I do the route, I'll just walk off and avoid the horrid drag.
Also might be worthy to bring a long draw for the bolt on the right side of the arete before heading around the corner to the Watch Crystal face.