Crappy picture of the alcove. Alcove 2 in Inyerbut...
Description
Start off on the broken, overhanging section in the middle of the alcove face. Then transition to face climbing with large and small crimps. Almost all of the holds are good until the last move. This difficult crux slabby move is devious and insecure.
Location
This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get there, hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. Can’t miss it. This route is the second to the right (going left to right).
Protection
5 or 6 bolts and anchor chains. Shares anchors with route to the right. Helmet isn't a bad idea.
I think the start is the hard part of this route. I like the way the edges appear as you go. The top move looks intimidating, but felt solid when I finally made myself do it.
By Royce Simpson From: Fort Collins, CO Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.10c
This, the second line from left to right in the Alcove, is very entertaining. The start is a little nervy overhang. Then you get onto a sweet face with solid edges and a couple mono pockets before being confronted with the slabby arete crux.