Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Art Morimitsu on Hobbit Roof
Description
Approach: Hobbit Roof is on the west face (backside) of the aptly-named Blob formation. Look for the obvious roof 20' off the deck.
This is a short route, but really fun! I'd give it 3 stars if it were longer. Thin and crimpy face climbing past one bolt (10d crux) lead up to the intimidating roof. The 10b roof protects very nicely with a #.75 Camalot. Get a good jam, take a deep breath, and fire it! Smooth sailing from here up the beautiful hand crack (#2 Camalot). Belay in crack.
Descent: scramble off climber's left.
Protection
1 bolt (3/8"), #.75,1,2 Camalots (1 ea.) Extra #1-#3 for anchor.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 14, 2003 rating: 5.10d
At the crux face moves you can go left or right (my partner and I did it opposite ways) to make the moves. Both seem like 5.10d and are a matter of using tiny holds. The roof is 5.10a, and you can place gear at the lip while standing below, then run to the top safely without much ado. Fun end-of-the day climb, but not as cool as the pictures look. It is just too short to be classic.
My hands sweat just thinking about it'! :) NOT RECOMMENDED (from a beginners standpoint) after climbing ALL day!!! Set up a 'Top Rope', do your best to stay toward the right (beneath the roof), don't extend your leg too far from the crack, JAM, LOCK, and PULL!!! Hats off to anyone that has bouldered this 'problem'
I found the most obvious way to pull the crux was just to the right of the bolt. The roof was less impressive than I had thought it would be BUT the jams were killer!
Found the initial jams above the roof to be slightly too small for my hand. Figured out a way to do a big knee-bar and reach much higher for a more secure jam.
The Blob - West Face
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