||Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Dominic Hari (from the Bernese Oberland) 22 June 2011 FFA: Quino Gonzales and JG, 4 July 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, and Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,012|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011|
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During FA of Beauty
|Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>|
Either climb the first pitch of Beast or after crossing the 2nd class grassy ledge, start 5m to the west (left) of the upper pitches (P2-P5) of Beast. Uniquely adventuresome and exhilarating climbing.
Pitch #1: Starts at the lowest toes of the Beast. Climb a long and fun pitch past 8 bolts and good placements to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.
Scramble up and left to the rock just to the east (right) of a prominent roof. 30m.
Pitch #2: Ascend the spur featuring scoops and swirls of colorful rock landscape past 4 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 35m
Pitch #3: Surge straight up beautiful rock through some surrealistic bulges, wondrous placements, and 3 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10a, 30m.
Pitch #4: Battle the Beast up a steep overlapping white quartz-like stripe past 6 bolts to a right facing dihedral under the roof which leads to a three-bolt belay. 5.11b, 25m.
3rd class through a fun knobby roof to a two-bolt belay at the top of the crag. Enjoy the views to the valley and upper Bells. 20m.
Shares same first pitch with Beast. Although rappelling the route is possible, the walk off north to the western descent gully seems most prudent.
QDs and set of C3s and Camalots to #2. Set of Nuts.
Extra 0.4 to 0.5 optional.
Nutcraft and gear placement skills are necessary, but opportunities are abundant.
Looking down pitch 2 on Beauty
By Quino Gonzalez
Jul 12, 2011
This is an excellent new route. James did a great job at finding the line, visualizing the route, cleaning it as well as the access to it, and even cleaning a descend trail. The first three pitches are very engaging and have a distinct alpine flavor. The protection can be a little challenging if your head is not into it but there are bolts where you most need them. The fourth pitch has a well protected crux that could easily become a Wasatch classic. But it is the 4 pitches, plus the location, that make this route a short alpine line worth trying. I had a lot of fun on it. I highly recommend it.
Aug 27, 2012
Damn good stuff. Not a sport climb.
BTW, pitch 3 has 3 bolts, thankfully, as the gear gets a bit natty up there.
By Kurt Howes
Jun 21, 2013
A really nice 6 hour car to car outing that cruises on much better climbing than what appears from the trail; a perfect blend of sport and trad. We didn't find the cut-off trail until exiting as it wasn't marked by cairns and is super faint. Some bog trudging may be avoided by cutting off a little higher from the main trail, just past the tiny (6") stream crossing. Left a locking beaner on route; finders keepers. I accidentaly made the crux section into a couple 12.a moves by going right of bolts instead of left. Camelots to #1; no c3's; some nuts. Good work James; thankyou!