The Sugar Daddy

The tower is the massive gray formation a couple hundred yards north of the highway, about 9 miles west of Hanksville. The rock is some species of shale, possibly Mancos shale.

Start on the south face, at the lowest point of the rock, about twenty feet left of the southeast arete (we left an army ring-angle at the start of the climb).

1. Aid the crack, which trends slightly rightwards, past a rotten pillar (careful!) thirty foot up, all the way to an obvious horizontal. Jog left here, and ascend a short steep open book in pale rock, and emerge on to a vertical face. Up this a few feet to a hanging belay with one bolt (1/2-inch by 6-inch) and an excellent 3.5-inch wide slot (100 foot, A3).

2. Continue up and left, passing two bolts, to a bulging stance. Surmount this (third bolt) and belay at two bolts under a steep, wide left-facing flake crack (50 feet, A3).

3. Up the crack on large cams, then nail calcite seams just left of a left-facing dihedral/groove to a loose finish (60 feet, A3).

Descent:

Rappel 60 feet from the summit to the end of the second pitch. Rappel 150 feet to the ground. Summit anchor is 50 feet of rope wrapped around a coffin-sized pile of dirt.

About ten miles west of Hanksville, easily visible from the road.

Gear: Pins: 6 large Toucans, 2 large Peckers, 8 assorted Knifeblades and Bugaboos, 6 Lost Arrows, 3 Texas Tacks (12-inch nails), 2 Standard Angles.
Cams: two each 1/2-inch to 3-inch. Three each 3-inch to #5 Camalot.
A selection of nuts, mostly medium to large.
Fifty to sixty feet of rope or webbing for the summit anchor.