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Second Sun 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 2,474
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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corey on second sun


Second Sun is a full-value 5.9 that gets a well-deserved three stars in the DCA. Occasionally strenuous stances for placing pro mean you better be solid at the grade to lead this route.

A somewhat slabby start moves into a short, shallow dihedral, then to thin moves over a bulge. Continue up to a small roof; pull the roof move and follow another dihedral to a more juggy finish.


Starts just left of Blonde Ambition.


Small to medium nuts and cams. Bolted anchors.

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By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Dec 12, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't remember stances for gear being that bad at all... though there were some heady moves above a #3 stopper at the crux. Awesome route with great protection!
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 13, 2007

Outstanding route. I enjoyed leading it so much that I had to bump it up to four stars!
By Sam Adams
From: Knoxville
Aug 24, 2009

Stances for placing gear were fine to me. The unnerving part was climbing above my gear at the first crux, but that's way cool once you've done it.
By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
Jun 16, 2013

The flake at the start flexes slightly under outward pull, so be careful when placing cams behind it.
By Kris Kyle
From: Atlanta, GA, From the Front Ra
Jul 10, 2015

Small cams protect the first crux well... didn't seem too heady (but was a lot of fun!)
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The stances for gear were fine, and while pro is not great, it is sufficient. I had two small cams blow when I fell at the second crux; a #8 stopper eventually caught me. Made for a memorable fall.

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