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Pancake Flake 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Smith, 1976
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: 426 on Apr 16, 2007

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Pancake flake.

Description 

Grunt up a slot to the obvious 3-4" "Pancake" flake. Lieback and jam through fun, albeit somewhat dirty moves.


Location 

20' right of Train Time on the Celebrity Flake. Ring anchors on top.

Protection 

Some wide stuff, perhaps to 4". There is a fixed pin above the squeeze chimney.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Pancake flake.
Pancake flake.

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By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Apr 9, 2012

Amazing route, don't skimp on the wider hand pieces. One of my favorites.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Alabama
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I brought 2 #4 camalots and 4 #3 camalots. That seemed just about right. As you finish the flake and end on a ledge, the anchors are out of sight. Continue climbing up, about 10 feet above the ledge, then traverse left 7 ft or so to ring anchors.