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Spooner Crag
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Caught in a Mosh S 
Crimp Tuff S 
Fire and Ice S 
Forget About It S 
Hangar 18 S 
Jello Wars S 
Maxwell's Hammer T 
Night Cap S 
Nightcrawler S 
Pocket Pool S 
Pot Belly S 
Spoonman S 
Stepping Out S 
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 
Yellow Finger S 

Maxwell's Hammer 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Max Jones and Mark Kaminsky, 1991
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,209
Submitted By: Gill on Apr 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Start on the flake below the bolt. Place small pro in flake. Smear to bolt. Smear to small roof. Undercling left. Place 1" pro. Climb vertical crack out of small roof. This is the crux. Climb up the crack on the ramp. Place 1-2 1"-2" pro over 30 rampy feet. Two hangers to rappel or TR from. Can also access a TR to Forget About It (5.11a; 5.10c variation) or Thinkin About It (5.10c/d) just to the climbers left of Maxwell's Hammer. Great route for a first trad lead!


South face of Spooner crag. Start is below a lone bolt where the large ramp becomes more vertical.


Standard rack to 2", plus two bolts. Two anchors at the top.

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By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
May 15, 2012

The crack above the roof takes great passive pro. It is a quite shallow crack so cams don't always seat well in it. Bring some nuts, hexes, or both and get some good practice placing these on fairly mild terrain. Crux for me is the run-out to the first bolt. Be cautious here, cause even with a piece in that first flake, you would surely deck if you were to fall before gaining the first bolt.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jan 29, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Tyson's right on. The crack takes great pro and you don't have any good pro until the bolt.
By Ensign
From: Zephyr Cove, NV
Sep 5, 2016

A new bolt has been added lower on the route since the first time I climbed this. It is now much safer.

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