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Routes in Spooner Crag

Caught in a Mosh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crimp Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire and Ice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forget About It S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangar 18 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jello Wars S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maxwell's Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightcrawler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pot Belly S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spoonman S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stepping Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Finger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Elevation: 7,157 ft
GPS: 39.1, -119.914 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 10,813 total, 116/month
Shared By: Gill on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Description

Crag hidden in the trees above the junction of NV 28 and US 50 on the east shore of tahoe. Small formation of volcanic tuff about 100 feet tall. Two sides yield about a dozen moderates. SW face is more challenging. South face little easier. Mostly sport climbing and one trad 5.8 with one bolt. Can climb in winter, gets great sun, may have snow on the ground.

Getting There

Pull into the parking lot at the junction of NV 28 and US 50 a few miles west of Spooner Summit. It is on the westide of hwy 28 hundred yards down from the junction. The parking lot is long. Park anywhere but hike west (uphill) in the middle of the parking lot. Many small foot trails lead to the rock about 200 yards from the parking lot. Biggest rock on the ridge. About hundred feet tall.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spooner Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maxwell's Hammer
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Cap
Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Forget About It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jello Wars
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Maxwell's Hammer 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Night Cap 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Forget About It 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Jello Wars 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Spooner Crag »

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Checked out Spooner Crag for the first time yesterday and noticed a few boulders spread out around the rope-climbing area. Was wondering if anyone had information on these boulders and the route grades. They were really fun, but can't seem to find any information, although I'm sure they're all established. Thanks in advance for any help! May 15, 2016
Stone Brew
Chattanooga, TN
Stone Brew   Chattanooga, TN
I went to Spooner yesterday and just wanted to clarify for people going there for the first time. The routes are mostly less than 50 ft long, granite, but a few of good quality. Pretty little place to climb on a sunny winters day. Mar 8, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
Hi Gill,

Thanks for the reply. You're more ballsy than me to climb to the second bolt! It looks a long way down from up there. Even if we never find out the name or first ascentionist, it sure is a fun climb and always remains challenging, at least for me. Jun 6, 2011
Gill
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
Hey Josh,
I have been e-mailing about the route to the left of night cap to a few people and no one knows or remembers the route. I too can't climb the direct but the traverse variation at the right feels like a few moves of V2. I say that because we would bring our pads skip the first bolt and clip the second and then move up. Using the pads as pertection for the fist 15 feet, better than swinging in my oppinion. My converter on the old iphone says a V2 is .11a/b. I know the route isn't that hard, it is just reachy. Would like to find out the true name and grade the FAist put to it. Can anyone help Josh and I? Someone has to know this route. It is the only one I haven't been able to find. Mar 6, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
Anyone know what the route just left of the first pitch of "Nightcap" is? The direct start looks 5.13ish. I've always liebacked off the right facing flake then traversed in. Lots of fun, especially if you fall at the 2nd bolt! The way I do it it feels 10b to me.

Since I've only been climbing here for a few years I didn't post the route; thought I should let someone with more seniority do it. Feb 25, 2011
Blitzo  
Hanger 18 is 5.11b. Oct 13, 2010
Gill
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
Hanger 18 is mentioned being to the right of Pot Bell. Is it the route with the rock
stack for the start? What is hanger 18 rated at? Oct 4, 2010
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
Look in carvilles guidebook. Jul 24, 2010
Gill
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
There are quite a few routes at Spooner that are not in the old Falcon Guide. The names are Unknown to me. When I post a route that in not in the old guide I will just name it unknown with the next number behind it. But, if anyone knows the names or the FA post a comment on the route page and I will change it. Jul 24, 2010

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