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Routes in Spooner Crag

Caught in a Mosh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crimp Tuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fire and Ice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forget About It S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hangar 18 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jello Wars S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maxwell's Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Cap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nightcrawler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pot Belly S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spoonman S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stepping Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yellow Finger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,304 total, 25/month
Shared By: Chris Barker on May 12, 2010 with updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This route is pretty straight forward. Follow the bolts just left of the large crack on the south face of Spooner Crag. There are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can stop there or proceed over the top to a brand spanking new set of stainless hangers to the first belay. From this belay follow the bolts to the summit over a small 12-18 inch overhang. You will find a nasty old rusty piece of crap metal chunk and a nice new bolt to absail from. Throw your rope over the back side of the climb (the side that you did not climb up). You are able to reach the bottom over the back with a 60 meter rope.

Location

This route follows the set of bolts just left of the large crack in the south face. The route just left of "Forget About It".

Protection

there are 5 bolts and an anchor on the first pitch. There are about bolts and an anchor on the second pitch.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8+
Makes for a great warm-up or cool down. Jun 12, 2011
Chris Barker
Denver, CO
 
Chris Barker   Denver, CO
 
Thanks for the update guys. I added the name "Night Cap" to the whole route. If you think I should split it up please suggest how and I will make the change.

Cheers,
Chris Jan 26, 2011
the secound pitch that starts at the top of the crack/ gully above fire and ice. is named (night Cap) i all ways rapped down over stepping out. Sep 29, 2010
Gill
minden, nevada
Gill   minden, nevada
If you feel ok with scrambling up the large crack it can save some time. Not very sketchy with positive holds. If you have any doubt, error on the side of caution! Just a way to save time to get to a great view. Also, I did desend the same side I climbed up with a 60 meter rope to the ground at the start of Pocket Pool and Jello Wars. If you do this you can set up top ropes on Pocket Pool and Jello Wars, just bring an extra rope up the large crack and stage it at the mid way point. Jul 24, 2010