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From MP's sister site:

Fern Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.6176, -94.0059 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,037
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brett Roberts on Feb 9, 2012  with updates from cadickerous
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Bleeder Boulder (Inner Demons-Ole Dirty Loosey)


UPDATE (2/15/15)
Jerry has done some amazing work on the Fern website and the Fern guidebook. For completely updated route info including all the new routes,

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Getting There 

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

80 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Fern

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern:
Ole Dirty Loosey   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 35'   Bleeder Boulder
Oh Sheila   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 35'   Bleeder Boulder
Bloody Monday   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 40'   Bleeder Boulder
Measure of Pleasure   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Bleeder Boulder
Penis Captivus   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Bleeder Boulder
Trail of Fears   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   Reservation Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern

Featured Route For Fern
Rock Climbing Photo: Alien Disco

Alien Disco 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C  Arkansas : Fern : Small Wall Boulder
Fun technical climb. Work the small crimps and side pulls for two bolts before moving right to the sharred anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arkansas

Photos of Fern Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bleeder Boulder (Check Point Charlie-Cowboys and A...
BETA PHOTO: Bleeder Boulder (Check Point Charlie-Cowboys and A...
Rock Climbing Photo: After travelling down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for ...
BETA PHOTO: After travelling down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Go down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. Whe...
BETA PHOTO: Go down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. Whe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Travel on Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. A...
BETA PHOTO: Travel on Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. A...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a rotated view of the right turn from 215 ...
BETA PHOTO: This is a rotated view of the right turn from 215 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fern

Comments on Fern Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Sep 16, 2012
After you pass Fern (the town) and AR-215 veers right, you will pass the Fern Assembly of God and then a tall A-frame house on the right side of the road. Just after that, the "unmarked dirt road" you will take on the right is the national forest road 1544. It is the first dirt road turn after you pass Hummingbird Rd on the right. Once you turn right onto it, you should see a brown post on the right side of the road with "1544" vertically in white numbers.
By Henri Alexander
From: Dallas
Aug 28, 2015
Supplemental to Drew's directions from 2012:
This place is quite hard to find at night if you've never been here before. There is no cell service and therefore no GPS. Check out the pictures I added in the pictures section. The directions by Drew and on the fernclimbing website will make a lot more sense.

You can camp here! Check out for the deets.

Weather: The location makes this place hard to climb if it rained in the past couple days. Moss grows easily here due to a nearby water source. Check the forecast, be safe and may the Schwartz be with you.
By inferno Tommey
May 17, 2016
Fern Climbing Guide

Climbing guide for Fern can be found at the above link. Jerry does a great job updating the website in order to illustrate any new routes.
By Amandita Johnson
Jun 11, 2017
Climbed there June 9, 2017 top rope. Using a sedan to get there was tough due to mud and holes. There must have been rain previously. We will go back but will use a truck or all-terrain vehicle. Temps were between 78-83 degrees so we were lucky it wasn't so hot. The sound of the creek and birds were awesome. There were about 8 people who left when we got there at noon so my hubby and I had the crag to ourselves. Thank you for all the climbers for keeping it clean by taking their trash. It was a fun experience so we're definitely going back.

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