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Homestake Road Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 S,TR 
5.9 S 
Don't Drag the Dog S 
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet S 
Far Left 5.8 S 
Gomer Alert S 
Neon Noodle S 
Night and Day S,TR 
Psychic Bomber S 
Three's a Charm S 
Transmogrifier S 
Wolfman Shuffle S 

Psychic Bomber 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,699
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 30, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Central Homestake Crag.

Description 

This is the first route left of the long 5.9 that goes high up the middle of the rock and up the right side of the dihedral. The top of this route goes on the arete on the left side of said dihedral. You can also identify this by the white vertical seam between the first and second bolt.

Start up on square incut holds and then some left side-pulls to the second bolt. Easier terrain leads to the base of the dihedral. The 5.9 goes up the face to the right, and this route goes right up the arete on considerably harder climbing to the chains above.

Protection 

9 bolts, chain anchors.


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By Roberto Morales
From: Eagle Vail, CO
Jul 28, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The route is called Psychic Bomber, 5.10b. Thanks.