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Routes in Homestake Road Crag

5.10 S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Drag the Dog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Far Left 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gomer Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Noodle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night and Day S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychic Bomber S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three's a Charm S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Transmogrifier S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wolfman Shuffle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 239 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brianluce on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun climb with 8 bolts.

It is the second climb from left of the 5.9, which is the obvious line that goes high into the broken rock/dihedral at the top of the middle of this cliff.

5.9ish terrain leads to the first bolt, then move up right on solid but intimidating holds. Carefully clip the second bolt (groundfall potential). Use some awesome sidepulls to a high jug on the 3rd bolt. Two moves between the 3rd and 4th bolts are quite hard on small finger sidepulls and make the crux of the route.

Then follow an easy series of huge, sharp sidepulls to the overhanging, broken finish. Monster jugs make this easier than it appears, but you better have some strong forearms for this one!

Location

Second climb from left of the 5.9.

Photos

This route and Three's a Charm may be the same: There are only two 5.10s immediately left of the 5.9. Jun 27, 2015
Roberto Morales
Eagle Vail, CO
  5.10b
Roberto Morales   Eagle Vail, CO
  5.10b
Yeah, it was a good thing I figured out that middle section for you. Nice change over from left to right and then back to left in the crux about half way up. Aug 31, 2010
Brianluce  
 
Yeah great climb, I call this climb Sidepull Sally. Good project. Aug 14, 2010