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Routes in Homestake Road Crag

5.10 S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Drag the Dog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dude I think I Lost My Wallet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Far Left 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gomer Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neon Noodle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night and Day S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychic Bomber S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three's a Charm S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Transmogrifier S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wolfman Shuffle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 39.471, -106.373 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: John McNamee on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The Homestake Crag (AKA Homespank, after the sustained pumpy routes) is a small, super accessible, sport climbing crag consisting of about 10 climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. This is a great crag for a quick post-work pump session, but is not recommended for a destination area. All routes are excellently bolted with more bolts through crux sequences to keep us all from decking. The majority of these routes are very quality with unique/fun crux sequences and intriguing holds (crimps, slopers, sidepulls, underclings, etc.). The rock is very featured, slightly overhanging in the middle, and routes range from 35 feet to 85 feet.

Camping is plentiful all along Homestake Rd., but get there early during the weekends for the money spots as it tends to get rather busy due to the easy access of the National Forest. Provisions can be found in Minturn (coming from the North) or Leadville (from the South). However, there is a great bar/restaurant in Redcliff called Mango's which is highly recommended.

This submission was intended to get the ball rolling for this little crag. If anyone can contribute FA info, pics, more detailed route info, etc. please let me know and I'd be happy to add/change what is currently there.

Getting There

From the North: after crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd., and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile, and the crag can easily be seen on the right.

From the South: go 20 miles +/- from Leadville on US 24. Take a left at Homestake Rd., and follow the above directions.

There is a climber's trail on the right, and the approach to the cliff is 30 seconds.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Homestake Road Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
monie  
Hey! I think I left a silver Grigri, red gloves, and belay glasses at Homestake last week. If anyone finds them, please text me!
Thanks, Simone 970-471-4833 Sep 12, 2017
ZachP
Avon CO
ZachP   Avon CO
Found a lost quickdraw here 5/31/17 by the far left 5.8. Send me a PM if it's yours, and I'll figure out how to get it back to you. May 31, 2017
PJL
PJL  
Hi, I found some climbing gear left at this crag. Found 7/14 will send to owner. Patrick.libby822@gmail.com. Jul 14, 2016
There is a drawing of most of the routes in the pictures to clear up any confusion. Sep 24, 2015
This is a fun little crag, definitely worth a visit, but there are fewer routes than shown here (there is duplication). The two long 5.10s in the middle (first and second routes to the left of the 5.9) are listed twice here, and also there are only two 5.10s on the shorter right side. In all, there are 10 bolted lines here, not the 13 listed on this site. Having done all but two of them now, my opinion on the approximate grades:

From left to right:

5.9 (depending on how you do it)
Didn't do, said to be 5.11
5.11
5.11
5.10
Hard 5.10
Hard 5.9
Didn't do, but said to be 5.11+
Hard 5.10
Hard 5.10 or easy 11. Jun 27, 2015
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Thanks for the effort on Homespank directions everybody :P If this is in fact the big wall that runs for a 1/4 mile uphill above the gigantic talus field, then comers beware: The approach trail is several hundred yards down the road from where the "flat parking" is described (there are a couple 1-2 car pullouts in the vicinity) and it's nearly impossible to find if you don't know what you're looking for. The trail is difficult to follow through the talus and is completely unmarked. The rock at the cliff (except potentially the very highest section) is loose, dirty, and 'sportily' bolted. The rock quality, hike, and 8 miles of driving on a gravel, washboard road make this a no-go for anyone seeking a good time. If that's not the crag, then will someone PLEASE post a helpful description of the approach and perhaps submit some route info for it?!?!? Aug 20, 2012
You're right, Rob. I don't know why the locals are so territorial about this place, everyone and their mom knows about it. It was way too packed with people when I went. It was early, too. Most places don't get like that til 8 or so. It reminded me of Clear Creek on a Saturday afternoon. I was even up there during the US 24 closer due to the sinkhole. However, the directions are simple: from Minturn, go south. After crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd. and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile, and the crag can easily be seen on the right. Jul 25, 2012
Since the "locals" have been such prix about revealing Homespank, here's how to find it. It's about 8 miles on up the road. Just before [about 200 yards before] - the road start climbing left into the switchback you'll usually see several cars parked along the flat. This is where you'll eventually park. However, continue on up the road, and upon exiting the righthand switchback you'll be on a shelf road. In less than a mile you'll come around a left hand turn and see the Homestake Dam for the first time. STOP, you've gone 100ft to far. Back down to the pullout just before that curve and get out. Looking across the valley - mostly North you can now see the Homespank cliffs. You can see anyone over there if you have binoculars. However, since you're here, there's a cliffline immediatelyl uphill from you. walk down the road about 25yards and enter the woods [uphill] immediately right of the huge boulder. There's kind of a path, but follow the developing cliffline and in about 50-60yds you'll come to the first two routes. Another 100ft past these there are four really nice bolted routes. The first one on the black arete seemed 11ish, the next one - with the small roof - very fun - probably 9+ or 10a, then two more 11ish ones up the bright orange lichens. Bring mosquito repellent!!!!! Jul 1, 2012
Maybe it's because I'm completely out of climbing shape (!), but everything I got on at this wall felt pretty stiff for the grade. But who knows, maybe I wasn't what I thought I was on! Reminded me a lot of some walls in Boulder Canyon. Cool little spot if you're in the area, gets nice afternoon shade too. Jun 11, 2012
From what I know, Homespank is supposed to be further up the Homestake Road in the vicinity of a big switchback. There's only one big switchback on Homestake Road a short distance before the reservoir. There are reported to be about 50 routes there. Oct 20, 2010
Sounds like there is another area to Homestake. I will do some looking next time I'm around.

I'm willing to check this out with anyone....

Here is what I believe Homestake Crag to be from left to right:

Neon Noodle
Wolfman Shuffle
Transmagnifier
Three's a Charm
Night and Day
Physic Bomber
Don't Drag the Dog
Gomer Alert Oct 20, 2010
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
This is a pretty fun place, but Mike has me feeling a bit confused. I've never heard of Homespank, but this makes me want to take a look... anyone else checked this out? Oct 16, 2010
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Fun wall and routes, can't beat the approach and beautiful nearby camping. There are some other walls to the east near the camping that could see a few lines if someone is willing.

Mike, if Homespank is truly another area, please post up some information. Sep 28, 2010
Homespank has nothing to do with this crag. The REAL Homespank is a few miles down the road and blows this place away! Sep 18, 2010
CA3
Fort Collins, CO
CA3   Fort Collins, CO
5.10a/b has a tough midsection move that warrants a higher rating.
5.10b is fantastic (second from right).
5.11a is a great route, watch out for chossy boulder before last bolt. Jun 26, 2010

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