Land of the Living Lies
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.36512, -105.38486 |
| FA: | AR, TW |
| Page Views: | 454 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Tal M on Jan 31, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a rambunctious, fun climb through the steep roof on the east side of the formation.
The fun starts right off the deck in a left-leaning finger crack (scout your gear well, or just use a crashpad to protect this part). Mantel up to a good ledge, grab some more gear, and move into a hand crack in the corner below the roof. From a good stance by the horizontal traverse, plug some good gear (as far as you can reach, with an alpine to help with drag), and execute the short, horizontal, jug traverse to the end of the rail and a decent rest if you’re a gargoyle (5.10+). A mega-jug gives way to the lone bolt on the route and the start of the crux (5.11) - working onto the huge ledge that hosts the anchor.
It’s very easy to scramble up and over to the anchor to set a TR, but you will still need to swing in and place gear for directionals or risk a miserable swing into a tree.



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