Old Anchors and Tat at Indian Creek (compiling a list of anchors that need upgrades)

Renegades of Funk and Closed Course at Way Rambo could use some chain. Put new webbing on Closed Course this weekend and cut the mank off but Renegades still has sun bleached tat on two decent 3/8th hangers.

Thanks Matt. I'll add that to the list!

And, Optmistic: yeah, and right now Planet Granite is matching the donations to the ASCA. Check it out here: mountainproject.com/v/11112…

Tofu crack at 2nd meat wall needs some love. The current chain equalizes to a single large quicklink. Said QL is 1/2 worn and oriented poorly. It was lock tight shut and couldn't simply swapped out by hand. I add two QL (one cheapo) to add redundancy, but it is still less than ideal.

The anchors on Twitch, at Scarface, have made me uncomfortable whenever I'm on it.

Twitch and Tofu Crack added to the list!

Thank you so much for all of your hard work in the creek.

Catastroph on Cat Wall (next to Fat Cat) is currently shitty bolts and tat.

Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker! on Public Service Wall. Bolts weren't the worst I've seen, but tat and old biners need to be replaced for sure. I didn't have anything with my that day so I left a pretty new (only a few months old) Dyneema sling on one of the bolts for my rap cause it was all I had.

best thread on the site.
just climbed jews on crack at the optimator a couple weeks ago and the anchors are fine, no stopper on a bolt anymore. jive crack, however, is one bolt and a drilled angle with a bunch of tat and worn biner.

thanks, thanks, thanks!

adding these to the list right now...

Cat Wall:
Bad Cat could use a new bolt. There's chain on some old aluminum SC hanger with a red head bolt?

Mad dog could use chain linking the modern bolt in with existing No GuD bent aluminum hanger etc. I added fresh webbing. Old piece was sun bleached white.

Unnamed #19 is the route at the top of the L trail. I added some fresh webbing today. Could use 2x 1' lengths of chain. Old webbing was partially cut.

justino wrote:Cat Wall: Bad Cat could use a new bolt. There's chain on some old aluminum SC hanger with a red head bolt? Mad dog could use chain linking the modern bolt in with existing No GuD bent aluminum hanger etc. I added fresh webbing. Old piece was sun bleached white. Unnamed #19 is the route at the top of the L trail. I added some fresh webbing today. Could use 2x 1' lengths of chain. Old webbing was partially cut.

You guys ever think about extending your reach into Canyonlands?
IE Monster Tower?
No power drills allowed, but I'd think a strong team of 4 could get it done on a spring day.

Yeah for sure Tony B. We do have a small list for the desert towers and such. it's amazing how many classic towers have old sketchy bolts. If anyone wants to see the list, or post up additional anchors on towers that need anchor replacement here, feel free and I'll add to that master list.

"Fairy Tales" at Pistol Whipped has bolts that are just WAY too far apart. Good rap hangars and bolts, but if you brought 2 regular length draws for the anchor it'll be like a 150 degree angle on your master point.

Luke Mehall wrote:Yeah for sure Tony B. We do have a small list for the desert towers and such. it's amazing how many classic towers have old sketchy bolts. If anyone wants to see the list, or post up additional anchors on towers that need anchor replacement here, feel free and I'll add to that master list.

Thanks for all your hard work! we all benefit, and I hope you never have to buy your own beer again.

If you're going to update 'Renegades of Funk' please consider moving the anchor up to the original high point.

Take 5 and take 10 on 4x4 wall need anchor replaced. Also Salt lake city special needs chains the tat is getting old.
Thanks

Lynx at Cat Wall could go on the list...
2 angles backed up with an older off brand cam.
FWIW the cam is not booty. You would never use it. Please just leave it up there.

Hefe Weissen at Optimator. 1 good bolt, one large nut, and a bunch of tat.

Thanks guys! Will add these to the list.

South Six Shooter was fixed up today. One bolt was pulled out by hand. Scary. Another on top could be moved by hand. Bolts replaced by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).

Let's keep updating the list, some headway is being made in The Creek! Feel free to post Moab area towers here too, we just started a list for those.

peace,
Luke

Puma on the cat wall has a drilled piton anchor still. Thanks for doing this yall. Really great.