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Elevation: 9,575 ft 2,918 m
GPS: 39.60365, -105.91699
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,095 total · 95/month
Shared By: Timothy Hosbach on Feb 4, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Do not park on the road DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a hidden gem across the river from Zuma Rock. You will find a mix of sport routes, mixed routes, and trad climbs.

Upper Wall

 

A. Old Trad Crack, 5.9, 1p, gear & bolt.

B. Drill 'Em And Fill 'Em, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.

C. Nothin' But a Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts & gear.

D. Nothin' But A Rainy Day Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts.

E. Nemesis, 5.10d, 1p, bolts.

F. Gone Fishing, 5.7+, 1p, gear.

G. Church Of Climbintology, 5.10b, 1p, bolts.

H. Rico Suave Made Me Do It, 5.9, 1p, gear.

I. Slabsters Lament, 5.10, 1p, bolts.

J. Disco Boy, 5.9+, 1p, gear & bolt.

K. Amazing Feets of Glory, 5.10c, bolts.

L. Ian's Route #2, 5.8, gear.

 

Middle Wall

 

A. Ants In My Shoe, 5.8, 1p.

B. Temptation Of The Left Layback, 5.11, 1p, bolts.

C. UnBearably Yellow Spider, 5.10c, 1p, bolts.

D. Chris Wilson Made Me Do It, 5.8.

 

Lower Wall

 

A. Ralph Fickel Memorial Route, 5.9+, 1p, gear.

B. Levitation, 1p, bolts.

C. Baby Bear Layback, 5.9+, 1p, gear.

D. The Tree Sawga, 5.10, 1p, bolts.

E. Jerr Bear's Final Lick, 5.11b, 1p, bolts.

F. Bear Down On It, 5.10-, 1p, gear & bolts.

G. Teddy Bear Two Step, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.

H. Bear Minimum, 5.9R, 1p, bolts & gear.

I. Bearington Bear Goes Boltin', 8, 1p, bolts.

J. There's A Bear, Where, Right There, 11-, 1p, bolts & gear.

K. Fingerbanger, 5.10a PG13, bolts.

L. Dingo Dango Dyno, 5.10a, bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

Several options for accessing this crag.

The most reliable option includes a longer approach. Park in the Keystone overflow parking lot or the pullout for Haus Rock. Walk back down the road heading back towards Keystone, aiming for the trailhead by the Settler's Creek neighborhood (trailhead coordinates: 39.60590° N, 105.92843° W.)

The shorter approach hinges on a river crossing, but this depends on water levels: Head to the Zuma Rock pullout, it is on the south side of the road near a barrel. You can see Morning Glory directly across the river. Head down to the river (there is a path of least resistance that limits erosion), cross the log bridge and head up the bank to an old service road. There will be a path in the trees to your right marked with cairns. 

Update: As of Fall 2020, the log bridge has been rebuilt. Per Alex Morano: there is a fallen over tree that can be used to cross right at the Zuma Rock pulloff. You can also just cross the river here when the water is low.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Gone Fishing
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Disco Boy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Nothin' Butt a Thang!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Bearington Bear Goes Boltin'
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Baby Bear Layback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Bear Down On It!
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 5
Krylon Deficiency
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Teddy Bear Two Step
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
UnBearably Yellow Spider
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
There's a Bear! Where? Right There!
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Temptation of the Left Layback
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gone Fishing
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Disco Boy
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Nothin' Butt a Thang!
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bearington Bear Goes Boltin'
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Baby Bear Layback
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bear Down On It!
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Krylon Deficiency
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Teddy Bear Two Step
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
UnBearably Yellow Spider
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
There's a Bear! Where? Righ…
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Temptation of the Left Layback
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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