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Goat Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Goat Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Center Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cheddar Corner S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Dragon's Breath TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Gouda Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Great Roof, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Havarti Cheese T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Swiss Cheese T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Triple Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Yodel King, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	2,880 ft	878 m
GPS:	37.2282, -122.1079 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	62,254 total · 213/month
Shared By:	Melissa Moore on Jun 20, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in.

It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around.

The rock itself is 110 feet high, but the routes run no longer than 80 feet.

From the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley.

The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone.

This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group.

The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you need to do a somewhat exposed walk to reach the top route anchors for the routes on the left side.

If you're planning on staying 'til sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight... otherwise the hike out gets very tricky. Also keep in mind that you are risking getting a parking ticket if you stick around too long after sundown.

Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4) for less experienced climbers.

Getting There

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You'll cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail (there is a sign labeled goat rock). If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you'll come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.

The hike in can be done in 15 min if you know where you are going and move quickly, or it can take about 45 min if you take your time and get a little lost on the way.

It is possible to access Goat rock from the backpack camp via the ridge trail or by walking along Skyline Blvd and turning onto the access road that goes by the ranger's residence.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Goat Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 89 ● Swiss Cheese Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 35 ● Cheddar Corner Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 34 ● Center Route TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 42 ● Triple Overhang TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 154 ● The Great Roof TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 4 ● Dragon's Breath TR