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Suggested Page Improvements to Marble Canyon
Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the Great Gully). To the left of the Great Gully is a smaller wall called Mid-Wall. The Mid Wall is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the North Gully.
The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well.
There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere.
The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and the bolts drilled by hand.
Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 Icy BC.
New Route Development
Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed.
- Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval.
- Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays.
- Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger.
- Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.
Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the Great Gully). To the left of the Great Gully is a smaller wall called Mid-Wall. The Mid Wall is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the North Gully.
The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well.
There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere.
The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and prior to 1992, the bolts were drilled by hand.
Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 Icy BC.
New Route Development
Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do your research to ensure that you are not bolting a previously climbed route.
- Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval.
- Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays.
- Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger.
- Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.
Hazards and Risks (Read This***)
[Edit]Marble Canyon is a limestone crag. Due to the nature of the geology, loose rock and rock fall should be expected. Climbers should be mindful of this characteristic when sharing the route with other parties, especially when rappelling. Tread lightly. It is normal for some holds to break in the beginning of a new route's lifecycle. Expect loose rock on routes particularly along the edges of routes if you start pawing around looking for better holds. Try to stay within the confines of the bolt line to mitigate your risk of falling when you encounter crumbly rock, and to decrease risk of rockfall to climbers below.
Marble Canyon has a lot of rock debris and scree on ledges that loom over routes. During high winds and heavy rainfall (rain bursts and thunder storms), debris is dislodged and is prone to falling. Water-saturated scree slopes and debris on the large terrace above the Lower Apron routes (below the Main Wall) can create debris flows over the lower wall. Climbers have been caught on Lower Apron routes during sudden rain bursts and been thankful to have survived after being pummelled by debris torrents and sudden water cascades.
Please also note, these same debris flows can be large and are subject to suddenly closing the highway to traffic when they flow out and block the highway. This is a reality that locals know well. Thankfully, the climate in this region is typically arid and sunny most of the year so rainfall is limited but this does effect the landscapes ability to cope with sudden rain bursts and thunder showers.
Despite being bolted, routes should be treated as alpine climbs, with respect to rock quality, commitment required, and weather events. Rain should be considered a serious threat due to the landscape not having evolved to absorb the water. Runoff leads to landslides, debris flows, and rockfall unlike other climbing areas. ***Rappel off routes at the first signs of grey clouds and rain***
Marble Canyon is located within Marble Canyon Provincial Park, located in the Pavilion Mountain Range in south-central British Columbia. The limestone canyon in which Marble Canyon Provincial Park is located is a rare geological formation in British Columbia, and this is not some small sport climbing bluff at its full height Marble Canyon is over 800 metres (>2,600 feet) high and many kilometres long.
Marble Canyon is made up of a Headwall (500 metres) that sits on top of a large Apron (250 metres) the headwall and apron are split by a huge treed sloping terrace (it takes approximately 20-30 minutes to walk from the top of the apron, up the terrace, to the base of the headwall). The headwall is bordered on its left by a massive gully (naturally named the Great Gully). To the left of the Great Gully is a smaller wall called Mid-Wall. The Mid Wall is bordered on is left side by another enormous gully called the North Gully.
The majority of the climbing occurs on the Apron, but there are routes on the Headwall and Mid Wall as well.
There is a long history of climbing in the Canyon dating back to the 1950s, but there has been very little documented until recently. The most reliable source of documented information can be found in the Guidebook Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight. Keep in mind that Marble Canyon is a huge place, the terrain is very complex, and the guidebook only covers some of the more popular routes. If you plan to climb any of the multi-pitch climbs, good route finding skills are necessary. The rock in Marble Canyon is quite variable, ranging from beautiful grey bullet-proof limestone to manky rotten red limestone, and everything in between. Wear a helmet and be equipped to rappel from anywhere.
The climbing is generally in the moderate range (5.7 to 5.10). Climbs are protected with a mixture of natural gear and bolts. Keep in mind when climbing here, that almost all of the multi-pitch routes were put up on lead, and prior to 1992, the bolts were drilled by hand.
Marble Canyon has the added bonus of being an excellent ice climbing destination. There are a number of climbs that form regularly on the southwest side of Turquoise Lake, the most popular being the 3 pitch grade 5 Icy BC.
New Route Development
Recently there has been a resurgence of new route development in the canyon. The following guidelines should help route developers decide how and where their route should proceed. Do your research to ensure that you are not bolting a previously climbed route.
- Do not add bolts to existing climbs without the first ascensionist’s approval.
- Do replace older bolts (especially ¼” bolts) on existing climbs and at belays.
- Use only stainless-steel bolts of 3/8” diameter or larger.
- Do not place bolts if good, natural protection is available.
