| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04048, -116.18987 |
| FA: | Unknown, circa 2005 |
| Page Views: | 55 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Mar 15, 2026 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
As you walk to the formation from the road the main concentration of climbs forms a "U" that faces the road. This route is the bolted climb on the left (west) side of the "U."
The bottom of the climb has many large bushes, making access a bit difficult.
Climb a short, left-facing flake to a ceiling. Move up and left to a jug at the lip of the ceiling. A finger-sized piece can be placed by the jug, but beware the jug is a bit loose. Make a difficult move to get stood atop the jug at the base of a groove/ramp. Climb the groove/ramp past two bolts.
There's no anchor on top of the formation and downclimbing the back side is tricky. In the gully behind the formation, you can rig an anchor with blue and gold Camalots. After following, the second can rappel back down the route on the fixed line and you can then disassemble the anchor and toss the rope over the top.



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