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| Type: | TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 34.08521, -116.14134 |
| FA: | Paul Mcguire, 2026 (toprope FA Terry Ayers, 1990) |
| Page Views: | 131 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Mcguire on Feb 24, 2026 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Incredible that this line went unclimbed (ropeless) all these years! Was top roped by Terry Ayers 36 years ago (1990), but with the loose flakes and the grainy grit I had to clean to make holds holdable, I would say it hasn't been touched for a long time and was not bouldered.
That said, Its amazing! Great movement on now solid rock. Landing is not great but with a good spotter and a few extra pads it's safe enough. I put rope on old bolt and backed up with a small cam in crack to rehearse moves, falling on upper section could be bad.
Crux for me was getting out of second kneebar in last heuco and throwing up right for side pull/ear hold.
Hard to grade without fear factoring in, probably only V5 moves but actually sending felt a couple grades harder. A spotter might have helped..
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