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Sunrise Crack
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Lower Goat Dome
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Drill Yer Own Hole Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gladiator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Great Outdoors, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jet Lag Jeopardy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knobs of Shame S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shake, Rattle and Pop T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Shin Splints Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shitz on a Ritz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunrise Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown Entity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walnuts and Wingtips T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 47.54294, -120.70848 |
| FA: | FA: Tobin Kelly, Frank Stern 1972 Start Variation FA: Jackson Bale, Dave Bale Aug, 14, 2022 |
| Page Views: | 352 total · 157/month |
| Shared By: | Jackson Bale on Jan 9, 2026 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
This is one of the single best crack pitches in the Icicle IMO that nobody knows about! Exciting, exposed, splitter and classic this is not to be missed by the aspiring Leavenworth climbers.
In its previous condition this pitch was so dirty and dangerous it was practically unclimbable. The crux (which was super R rated) will easily stymie the competent 5.10 climber but is chill and super fun when sorted. After cleaning this pitch up and making it “safer” I’m hesitant to give this a pg-13 rating. Even though most of the gear is small and fiddly in spots it’s bomber where you need it!
The original start begins directly under the route and climbs a hallow crack/flakes that had some death blocks in it that were pulled. The preferred start variation go to the left of the original next to a two bolt anchor on a slab with small knobs protected by a bolt. This is where the business starts! Climb the dihedral (don’t forget you’re offset brassies) up to the roof where you will find the crux. Once you pull the roof continue up the splitter finger/tips crack with knobs for about 20m to a two bolt anchor with rings!
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