Compay Segundo

The first pitch seemed to hold the crux with continuously challenging moves and good pro.  The guide book Dolomiti New Age didn't seem accurate to us.  The pitch ratings all seemed to be off.  We certainly never encountered a 6b (5.10d) pitch as indicated in that guide book.  Note: I did the Corrto Maltese to the right two years before.  The Compay Segundo route description in the guide book seemed grossly in error.  It was that or we were in gross error in our route finding.  In either case, use this description with a dose of skepticism.  Maybe do Corto Maltese instead.

1.  well protected climbing up to .9/.10a.  sustained.  40m

2.  moderate pitch at 5.8.  15m

3.  follow more bolts to belay on descent ledge.  5.8/9. 30m

4.  Climb easy rock left of large gash in wall.  some loose rock.  (the book calls this pitch 10a or 10b.  It wasn't.  5.6  30m.

5.  head up and left.  moderate terrain.  belay near arete with hanging belay. 5.7 30m

6.  move left around arete and then back to the right. 5.7. 30m

7.  Up to an unroping spot in a shattered amphitheater with no obvious exit.

Descent:  We thrashed our way through a forest of dwarf pines up and left.  No evidence of others passing by that way.  We were obviously on the wrong way out.  One could conceivably do another pitch up the shattered amphitheater but that did not look appealing.  In any case, once you are above this all finding the descent is a bit tricky.  Wander up and in an easterly manner until you reach the first drainage.  Don't go down this.  COntinue up and eastward to the next drainage and an obvious cairn.  Follow this little trail in the eastward direction and then eventually to the north and down the drainage to its end.  One rap needed.  Lots of scrambliing and third class down climbing.  

This is the route just left of Corto Maltese.

12 alpine and sport draws. four small to #2 Camelot. half dozen stoppers.