| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | -33.95335, 18.40456 |
| FA: | Mike Scott, Aleck McKirdy & Andy Wood 1979 |
| Page Views: | 97 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Sep 7, 2025 |
| Admins: | Michael Sullivan |
Description
Very good climbing right up the center of the Arrow Buttress. Find the base by looking for the long roof, this route goes out the smaller section right in the center. You'll spot a 50' pillar below this point. To reach the start, scramble up it's left side to the top of the pilllar. There is a great topo available here: https://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/table-mountain-cape-town
The route is usually described in four pitches, but can be easily done in two just fine.
P1. (14/5.8-) Starting off the pinnacle, traverse rightward for ~8'. Once you reach a break, you can start heading upwards. There's some lichen at the start of the pitch. Belay below the roof on a small ledge, or link with the following pitch.
P2. (16/5.8+) Just a bit right should be a small break in the roof. I missed this and went left through the roof (19/5.10b), which was really fun, but also not well protected from a ledge fall. After another little ledge tucked away in a dihedral, you'll traverse right, hanging under a roof, with good exposure. Bring a #4 cam. Belay 20' later on the good blocky ledge with a few small cams or #2s.
P3. (17/5.9) Head up a dihedral/arete with some sneaky holds and fantastic movement. Pull a juggy roof, then quest off on big holds! There are many stances for a belay, but perhaps if you're stopping, stop before the obvious tricky right facing corner.
P4. (16/5.8) Awkward right facing dihedral jam crack. After this bit, its easy, ledgy jaunt to the top. You'll spot the rap anchor out left, which I'm guessing is where the route ends. I decided to just keep going to a convenient finish with a slung block anchor.
Descent:
- Rap off the sling anchors. Might need two ropes? I don't know
- Walk off right, then up towards one of the other rap routes or up to India-Venster.
- Continue up the Middle Buttress then Africa Ledge (best)



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