Via Mezzo
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A0
| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 46.27858, 9.56333 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 39 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | earl mcalister on Aug 19, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
A quality route with bolted anchors and plenty of lead bolts to keep you on route. The start is accessed by steep snow much of the summer so an axe and crampons may be necessary. It faces West and gets sun around 11 AM in the summer.
P1: Traverse right from ledges above the snow to the highest ledge with a single ring bolt. A quick A0 move leads to a nice flake which has a tricky move over a small roof (bolt, crux). Continue up the flake until it ends then do a slabby traverse right (bolt) to face holds and an anchor. 5.10a A0, 50 meters.
P2: Move right and up to a bolt. Continue up into a right facing corner to another bolt and then move left on an easy flake to another anchor. 5.9, 40 meters.
P3: Move left and up a flake system on moderate cracks while clipping 3 bolts on the left side of the flake. Anchor on a nice ledge. 5.7, 25 meters. Can link into next pitch with a 60 meters if your rope drag isn't too bad.
P4: Up and left on moderate but chossy holds and flakes to a ledge where you can clip the first hard to see bolt. Continue up and right on slabby terrain clipping 5 bolts total. The crux is right before the anchor at a small roof. Ends at an uncomfortable stance. Can likely link 4 and 5 to skip it. 5.10b, 25 meters.
P5: Climb up and left on chunky dark rock past 2 bolts in a shallow right facing corner. Pull over the steepest part next to a bolt onto a slab and continue up on nice flakes to an anchor at another uncomfortable stance. 5.10a 25 meters.
P6: Climb up and slightly left past spaced bolts to a grassy ledge. Do some steeper, more thought provoking face climbing past 2 bolts to an anchor. 5.10a, 50 meters.
P7: More slab straight above the anchor. At the second bolt move slightly right and climb flakes that take gear, eventually moving back left to another bolt and up to a gigantic ledge. 5.9, 40 meters.
P8: Climb straight above the belay to steep flakes and cracks below a small roof. Clip a bolt and surmount the roof. Continue up the gray slab past another bolt to an anchor on a ledge 5.10a, 40 meters.
P9: Straight above the belay on steep flakes past several bolts to a tricky layback sequence in a flaring crack. There is some nice jamming in between the bolts but gear will be appreciated. Bolted belay on another nice ledge. 5.10+, 30 meters.
P10: Move right from the belay into a right facing corner using face holds and cracks in the left wall. Move left out of the corner to a ledge. 2 bolts of A0 lead to a mantle and easier wide cracks to the summit. 5.10a A0, 30 meters.
Descent: Rap the route. Most of the raps need 2 ropes but a couple of them we used a single 60 meter. Bring tat to connect the stainless bolts. The bolts are in excellent shape but the cord connecting them was in rough shape.



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