Solution groove

The route follows an obvious continuous weakness up the prominent broad NE face. The weakness is at times a series of cracks, a shallow groove, or a chimney up higher. Climbing is mostly in the feature though at times ventures out onto the face where holds and rock are better though protection more sparse. Protection bolts can be found along the way though climbing is decidedly still very runout and a fall would be quite bad. Belays are two bolts except for the first anchor which is a bolt and fixed nut. Bolts are connected with webbing and a single biner used for rappel. Carabiners are either locking or a non locking with the gate taped shut. A party would be well advised to bring extra tat incase connecting material has degraded. 

P1. Start at top of snow field (in the moat if later in the season). Follow groove/crack up and right. Where crack splits in two find a bolt 8’ up on right to build a belay with one bolt and fixed nut  (60m)

P2. Follow broken crack angling left towards clean break in overlap . Belay at two bolts just below steeper rock and weakness (60m)

P3. Climb through grassy groove crack above belay. Sling an alder and get some small gear in and watch for loose blocks. Careful move navigating steep section (10a).Wide crack above #2-5 Belay at small alcove above offwidth section (20m)

P4. Climb straight up though grassy crack finding chock stones. Clip three bolts on the way in the top of the pitch. . (55m)

P5. Climb up vegetated groove above and clip two bolts. When groove gets bushy look for a bolt out right on the slab (green rock). Look for gear (none, runout) and find one more bolt before going back to the groove for more gear. Bolted anchor (60m)

P6. Follow the groove getting gear where you can. Clip one bolt and step right and up to bolted anchor (50m)

P7. Break right of the groove and ramble up low 5th terrain. Find some gear and eventually pass a single bolt. Finish in the dark alcove with steeper terrain above towards large tree(60m rope stretcher)

P8. Leave the belay stemming up the dark alcove with gear. Move out onto the face through some rotten rock to the anchor past 3 bolts and gear (55m) Tree belay 

P9. From hemlock tree belay stand up on perch to clip a bolt. Press and stem through groove past loose rock to gain chimney above (5.10a). Chimney up several steps past two more bolts and gear  and large chock stones to two bolt belay in another alcove (40m)

P10. Leave belay placing gear in slot till a bolt at the top by some loose rock. (30m)

P11. Climb crumbly arete left of the weakness on poor rock past a bolt. Stay left of weakness past two more bolts and more loose rock. (55m)

P12. Climb shallow weakness on left side past two bolts plus rappel and trees to sling. Pass rappel station to belay from Heather ledge (50m)

P13. From Heather ledge with hemlocks just off arete climb past small hemlock and onto arete to feature summit past two bolts and some gear. Two bolt anchor just below high point. (55m)

Turn off Hwy 19 towards Zeballos on zeballos main. Turn off onto Atluck Rd and onto AT8000 spur rd that goes up above the south side of Atluck Lake. Follow road as far as can be driven. Continue walking up rd to fresh cut block at the end that comes close to avalance cone at the base of the steep faces of the NE fast of Pinder. Strike out across cutblock and thin strip of trees to reach the base of approach slabs. Alternatively approach from further down hill, crossing the forest to reach the base of the wall, following it in talus to reach the base of the slabs. Climb and scramble 3rd and 4th class slabs to the base of the wall and snow patch. Access the wall in a seasonal moat on the right (north) side of the snow patch to reach the start of the route in the corner. 

Bolted or hybrid rappel stations (bolt and fixed pro) with one tree belay for pitch 9. Occasional protection bolts but mostly natural protection. Standard single rack to 4 or 5 and assortment of nuts.