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Routes in Mammoth Crest
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A Good Ribbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Above Suspicion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Apprentice, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Backseat Climber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Track S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bush Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Contender, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crestfallen S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Finger Locking Good T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flower Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Oldies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hex Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lucy, I'm Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Master Beta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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My Mutt Is Smarter Than Your Honor Student T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Model (No. 15) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plum Line S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Right to Lean P1 T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sierra Slam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Survivor T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Uncontrolled Burn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 37.60194, -119.03294 |
| FA: | Urmas, Dustin Clark |
| Page Views: | 26 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Aug 9, 2025 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Get up there and get on this route! We just climbed it yesterday so it will be cleaner for you than it was for us. Not horribly dirty but what was there increased the difficulty a bit for me for sure. Should be better now if you make it up sooner than later. This route just needs some love. It's kind of lonely being a ways left of the Requiem Wall.
The route is game on from the get go. The game starts with the approach. Again not that bad but it takes some effort. Once up there you have to pick a belay spot. Do you and your belayer both scramble up onto the exposed ledge or do you belay from below? We opted to build a solid anchor and belay from below. The stance there isn't flat, although we did kick out a spot where the rope wouldn't slide down the steep hillside. One could also belay from a good size tree below the starting ledge (the tree is visible in the photo on page 142 of Marty's guide). I built the anchor with a #3 C4, #8 Metolius cam and a yellow C3. I think the spot is obvious. A short 5.6 hand crack about 15' long directly above our stance leads up to the ledge below the first bolt. I should have placed a hand size piece of gear in the crack before the ledge as a fall getting to the first bolt would not be good. Also a piece in the crack would have allowed the rope to run easier. I also would have been happy placing a piece of gear off the ledge below first bolt. Now that it is a bit cleaner, it might not be as bad? I remember seeing a spot for a stopper and maybe other options.
The route consists of cool edges and cracks and other features, some with a delicate and sometimes hollow feel. Off the ledge, the route stars out vertical then gets a bit overhung at the 2nd and 3rd bolts making it a bit pumpy from the start. After the third bolt the angle eases to off vertical for the remainder with often cryptic movement between bolts, then ending with a solid and now cleaner hand crack to the open shut anchor.
Location
Way left of the more popular Requiem Wall. An obvious class 2 gully that leads all the way to the rim is a good landmark. The route is up in the gully on the right hand side, starting next to the also obvious big tree.
I recommend staying low on the approach until probably directly below the gully, not what we did. If you go directly to the route and not up and down, looking at other lines, then the approach isn't that long.
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