Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mammoth Crest

A Good Ribbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Track S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Locking Good T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy, I'm Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Mutt Is Smarter Than Your Honor Student T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Model (No. 15) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sierra Slam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uncontrolled Burn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Barry Hutten, Greg Barnes 2001
Page Views: 1,742 total · 18/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun mixed bolts and gear route finishing with a nice 5.8 finger crack running through a clean slab. Beautiful views and solitude.

Pitch one:
Climb past two bolts (5.8) to a section requiring gear. Next, wander past 4 more bolts (5.8), then a bit more gear, and finish with three bolts (more 5.8) to a two bolt anchor with rap rings at a great, spacious ledge. (9 bolts plus gear; 165 feet).

Pitch two:
Traverse left from the anchor, then climb up for 10-15 feet until you can traverse back right above the belay to a nice finger crack. Follow the very nice slabby finger crack (5.8) upwards to the next belay at two bolts with rap rings. You need to switch cracks towards the top of the pitch moving first left a bit and then back right. Very nice pitch that protects well with small nuts and cams. You can probably climb straight up from the belay to the finger crack, but there would be no gear. The way I describe above protects well and seemed like the obvious way to go. (gear; 80 feet)

Descent:
Rappel the route with two ropes. If I remember correctly, there was an additional set of rappel anchors half down and to the right of the first pitch. This would probably facilitate rapping the route with only one 60m rope, but I am not sure.

Location

When you reach the talus/snow field at the top of the approach, head left for quite a ways to find the start of the route. I will try and post a photo marking the beginning of the route because Mammoth Crest is quite a large cliff.

Consider getting a copy of Mammoth Area Rocks (Lewis and Moynier) for a nice set of photos detailing where the route is located on Mammoth Crest and a topo of the route.

Protection

Bring draws, including long draws to reduce rope drag. Thin cams to a #2 Camalot equivalent.

Photos

timmaly
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Climbed this yesterday. Great climb in an awesome setting. It has a distinct alpine feel - some loose rock, no chalk marks and lichen growing on parts of it - despite what looked like new bolts. P1 is very well bolted with a few stretches of gear placements. The finger locks on P2 are sweet. Definitely go left off the P1 belay. One or two committing moves to reach the crack but not that bad. It's a slog to get up to the Crest but well worth the effort. We used a 60m rope and did three rappels. There is an intermediate bolted rap station halfway up the first pitch in an alcove by a tree. It's climber's right of the bolt line and easy to miss when climbing. But it's clearly visible from the base so I would suggest spotting it before starting up. Jul 28, 2014
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.8
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.8
great climb with epic views. 1st pitch was my favorite. fun face climbing onto the arete and back to the slab. 2nd pitch hand crack was intermittent but fun and great gear. only used cams on 2nd pitch. short and quick. can easily do a couple routes up there to make it more of a day. 45min approach then 15min traverse. Jul 7, 2014
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.8 PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.8 PG13
overall a pretty good route. didn't use anything bigger than a #1 camalot. thin nuts and cams helpful! approach 45 mins/2mi to base of mammoth crest and another 10 mins for 1/4mi to start of climb (at a moderate pace).

p1- don't expect 9 bolts in a row. you get 2 bolts at the start, then a longer section of (mostly) thin gear, then 4 bolts (right around the first anchor station), then more gear, then 3 more bolts. it's a long pitch unless you stop and belay at the first station.

p2- don't expect a stellar, continuous 5.8 finger crack (west crack or south crack in tuoulumne). looking up from the belay of p1 (2nd belay station), you'll see a seam going straight up. a few feet to the left is another seam that has some excellent, intermittent finger locks. it's rather improbable, but fun. i angled left and up toward the crack from the anchor. easy climbing, but ugly fall potential. a bit higher up is a right trending rail that leads to another upward 'crack' to the anchor. i thought this pitch was technically easier than than p1. Jul 8, 2013
There are rap rings about 90 feet up just to the right of the bolts on a small ledge so that you can rap with a single 60 mtr rope. Aug 7, 2012

More About Finger Locking Good

Printer-Friendly Guide