Finger Locking Good
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Barry Hutten, Greg Barnes 2001|
|Page Views:||1,742 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Jan 11, 2010|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFun mixed bolts and gear route finishing with a nice 5.8 finger crack running through a clean slab. Beautiful views and solitude.
Climb past two bolts (5.8) to a section requiring gear. Next, wander past 4 more bolts (5.8), then a bit more gear, and finish with three bolts (more 5.8) to a two bolt anchor with rap rings at a great, spacious ledge. (9 bolts plus gear; 165 feet).
Traverse left from the anchor, then climb up for 10-15 feet until you can traverse back right above the belay to a nice finger crack. Follow the very nice slabby finger crack (5.8) upwards to the next belay at two bolts with rap rings. You need to switch cracks towards the top of the pitch moving first left a bit and then back right. Very nice pitch that protects well with small nuts and cams. You can probably climb straight up from the belay to the finger crack, but there would be no gear. The way I describe above protects well and seemed like the obvious way to go. (gear; 80 feet)
Rappel the route with two ropes. If I remember correctly, there was an additional set of rappel anchors half down and to the right of the first pitch. This would probably facilitate rapping the route with only one 60m rope, but I am not sure.
LocationWhen you reach the talus/snow field at the top of the approach, head left for quite a ways to find the start of the route. I will try and post a photo marking the beginning of the route because Mammoth Crest is quite a large cliff.
Consider getting a copy of Mammoth Area Rocks (Lewis and Moynier) for a nice set of photos detailing where the route is located on Mammoth Crest and a topo of the route.