Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 37.60194, -119.03294
FA: Barry Hutten, Greg Barnes 2001
Page Views: 3,789 total · 20/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jan 11, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Fun mixed bolts and gear route finishing with a nice 5.8 finger crack running through a clean slab. Beautiful views and solitude.

Pitch one:
Climb past two bolts (5.8) to a section requiring gear. Next, wander past 4 more bolts (5.8), then a bit more gear, and finish with three bolts (more 5.8) to a two bolt anchor with rap rings at a great, spacious ledge. (9 bolts plus gear; 165 feet).

Pitch two:
Traverse left from the anchor, then climb up for 10-15 feet until you can traverse back right above the belay to a nice finger crack. Follow the very nice slabby finger crack (5.8) upwards to the next belay at two bolts with rap rings. You need to switch cracks towards the top of the pitch moving first left a bit and then back right. Very nice pitch that protects well with small nuts and cams. You can probably climb straight up from the belay to the finger crack, but there would be no gear. The way I describe above protects well and seemed like the obvious way to go. (gear; 80 feet)

Descent:
Rappel the route with two ropes. If I remember correctly, there was an additional set of rappel anchors half down and to the right of the first pitch. This would probably facilitate rapping the route with only one 60m rope, but I am not sure.

Location Suggest change

When you reach the talus/snow field at the top of the approach, head left for quite a ways to find the start of the route. I will try and post a photo marking the beginning of the route because Mammoth Crest is quite a large cliff.

Consider getting a copy of Mammoth Area Rocks (Lewis and Moynier) for a nice set of photos detailing where the route is located on Mammoth Crest and a topo of the route.

Protection Suggest change

Bring draws, including long draws to reduce rope drag. Thin cams to a #2 Camalot equivalent.

Photos

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