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Routes in Mammoth Crest

A Good Ribbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Track S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Locking Good T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy, I'm Home T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Mutt Is Smarter Than Your Honor Student T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Model (No. 15) T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plum Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sierra Slam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Uncontrolled Burn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 185 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dustin Clark, Urmas Franosch 10/2002
Page Views: 142 total · 15/month
Shared By: davefaus on Sep 14, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Fun, exposed climbing in a backcountry setting just 30-45 minutes from the car

P1. Climb a hand crack past a bolt (and/or place a cam) to a ledge. From here make your way up the right side of the face and arete to a bolted belay .10b 80'

P2. Climb up the arete, stepping right at some point when things get thin, then back left. Really fun pitch and felt pretty heads up (maybe I was just gripped from the exposure). 15' below the top of this pitch I found myself in a 8' ow section, but you could probably bypass it on the face. Belay at bolts on a big ledge below a nice boulder problem in the sky .11b 80'

P3. This is a short pitch, 25 feet maybe. Right off the belay it's on! Hug, slap, and tickle your way up the steep (overhanging) pillar in front of you for a few bolts and enjoy the wild position .11b 25'

Recommended to link p1 and p2. It is possible to link all 3 with a 70m but a combination of rope drag and a ledge below some hard moves on p3 convinced us not to.

Rappel with 60 or 70m rope

Approach [Suggest Change]

Park at the Horseshoe Lake parking lot and take the McLeod lake trail up to the lake, passing it on the north side. As the trail begins to descend toward mammoth pass stay to the left and take the obvious gully. There is a used trail that will make things much nicer. At the far right side of the Mammoth Crest there is a sandy bowl with a buttress to the lookers right side. This is where you will find the County Line Buttress and this climb.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts. Opt. 2.5" piece For p1

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