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The Fin
V1 YDS 5 Font
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Biddles Tower
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Biddles Platinum V5 6C |
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Biddles Steel V6 7A |
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Biddles Zinc V3 6A |
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Blue Steel V7 7A+ |
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Copperhead V5 6C |
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Copperhead Extension V8 7B |
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Fin, The V1 5 |
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Regular Route V1 5 PG13 |
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Steel Platinum V7 7A+ |
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| Type: | Boulder |
| GPS: | 37.22529, -122.08063 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 43 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Willy Wisconsin on Aug 3, 2025 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Listed in the book, "Golden State Bouldering" and based on what the picture looked like: reach high above you and grab the right hand flake. Depending on how flexible you are, find a good foot with your left, a cruddy hold with your left, and begin. I don't think grabbing with your right and then jumping into the hueco counts as the start.
Go straight up along the moss face.
Feels tougher than the prescribed V1: https://youtube.com/shorts/jWEjCy21Szs
Extra note - There looks like rock scarring above the hueco. Perhaps there was a jug flake previously...that would make this problem feel closer to the prescribed V1 grade.
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