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Biddles Bouldering

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Biddles

Biddles Tower 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Trail side boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Upper Biddles Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

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Elevation:	2,885 ft	879 m
GPS:	37.22342, -122.07963 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	20,583 total · 296/month
Shared By:	Salamanizer Ski on Mar 24, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Cool little area with some little known classics. Less traveled and just as good as Castle. There used to be a Biddles sign but it is now gone. To get to the boulders walk down the stairs, continue downhill and take a left at the next intersection until you reach the boulders on the right (around 10 min approach). Not to be confused with the Seagraves pullout! The rest of the boulders other than these two are downhill on the left after the obvious giant redwood tree.

Getting There

The prior pull out (not the one that says "Seagraves") before Sunnyvale Mountain. Look for a small pullout 1.2 miles south of Castle with a gated fireroad and stairs. Known as the skyline trail. to get to the boulders walk for a ways to a trail junction where you take a left farther down into the ravine. After about 10 minutes of walking (don't lose hope) you will see the cave boulder and upper Biddles Rock.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Biddles

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2 5+ R 6 ● Biddles Gold Boulder Upper Biddles Rock
V3 6A 12 ● Tender Biddles Boulder Upper Biddles Rock
V5 6C 19 ● Biddles Platinum Boulder Biddles Tower
V5 6C 21 ● Copperhead Boulder Biddles Tower
V6 7A 4 ● Biddles Traverse Boulder Upper Biddles Rock
V7 7A+ 9 ● Blue Steel Boulder Biddles Tower