Capsize

Safety: 

1. Please do not skip bolts or give sloppy/loose belays.The top half of the route climbs directly over the Oceanside Boulder, same as Pile Driver. As you go higher, the "ground" gets closer. Additionally, the higher you go, the more rope stretch. The bolts get closer to compensate, but you should still keep a close belay.  

2. The arete is sharp. Do not bail over to Tentacle, and especially don't clip any bolts on Tentacle! This should be self explanatory, but your rope will cut like a hot knife through butter. The close bolt spacing should dissuade you from this ill-fated desire.

________

The Route:

This is the steeper, left side of the arete left of Tentacle. We always looked at it, but were sure it would be a mix of sections that would be too easy to just mantle out and parts that just wouldn't go. Turned out the route is neither! Instead, it is super techy, pumpy, and wildly unique! An instant classic according to the half dozen who have been working it already.

________

Logistics:

If you are careful, and wise, you can easily hang the draws by top roping Tentacle (with directionals on Tentacle of course), hanging on the rope, and reaching left around the arete to hang draws on Capsize. The same can be done to remove the draws later. Hanging the draws on the anchor requires skill and attentiveness though.

Immediately left of Tentacle around the arete. The route faces west.

12 bolts. Kneepad helpful. Rams horns. An extra long draw on the 5th clip is wise.