Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Bolted: Evan Wisheropp, FFA: Ethan Pringle 6/20 |
Page Views: | 1,276 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Jun 20, 2020 |
Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
NorCal's new hardest sport line? Right next to one of the world's hardest cracks? This route is a destination line for anyone climbing mid 5.14.
Three days of bolting, cleaning, and $250 of titanium revealed this climb to be much, much harder than I had bargained for and out of my league for more than one or two moves at a time (on a very good day). I bolted it solo using cam placements, multiple crazy directional ropes, and only one removable bolt. Yet there are no extra holes drilled on the route.
This unbelievable climb forks right from the fourth bolt of Doggy Style (5.13), hits a kneebar rest, and diagonals up and right following an insanely overhung line of pockets and underclings for a total of 11 bolts. The movement is absolutely top notch and insanely unique. The wall is STEEEEEP and relentless, with an incredible pump near the top. Ethan Pringle came in and put some real hard work in on the line and made it happen.
Three days of bolting, cleaning, and $250 of titanium revealed this climb to be much, much harder than I had bargained for and out of my league for more than one or two moves at a time (on a very good day). I bolted it solo using cam placements, multiple crazy directional ropes, and only one removable bolt. Yet there are no extra holes drilled on the route.
This unbelievable climb forks right from the fourth bolt of Doggy Style (5.13), hits a kneebar rest, and diagonals up and right following an insanely overhung line of pockets and underclings for a total of 11 bolts. The movement is absolutely top notch and insanely unique. The wall is STEEEEEP and relentless, with an incredible pump near the top. Ethan Pringle came in and put some real hard work in on the line and made it happen.
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