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Routes in Puff Boulder

Blowhole S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clicking Barnacles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doggy Style (aka Baby Herc) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Holladay-Ludwig S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mutiny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sea Legs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slow Spring, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wildwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay
Page Views: 1,163 total, 10/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sharp arete. Stem for an easier start. Traverse L at top.

Location

1st route on the R when entering the gash.

Protection

4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
This route was Mis-labeled in the old guide as Centipede. The 5.9 grade was because it originally finished with the mantle over the bulge left of the arete, and finished with a walk off. When the place was rebolted, a lower anchor was added dropping the grade to 5.8. The original name Clicking Barnicles was brought back. Sep 15, 2017
Justin Time
  5.9
Justin Time  
  5.9
Named centipede going at 5.9 in the old guide book. 3 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Committing move for the grade right before the anchors with a high step on the arete. Super fun with unique start. Sep 13, 2017
People new to the area, don't forget that the original route tops out. If you want to try it, it's a fun 5.9 traverse and mantle up and left of the new anchors. Both versions are very fun! Sep 11, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
I never was asked about adding another bolt to this route, the 2nd route at the cliff, after Blackbeard's Tears. But then again, I haven't lived up on the North Coast for many years.

Whatever, it's fine. The same thing happened with Blackbeard's Tears w/ the fixed anchor at the end of the free section ... it's good, however.

Yes, I vaguely recall hanging on hooks on lead while hand-drilling... Jul 8, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
nice pure arete with solid rock. sporty bolting not for beginners.. F6b if not bridging.
Old man Tony sounds grumpy ;), good effort rebolting the crag guys, thanks for all the hard work, much appreciation from the Redding crew. Makes for a really great weekend away for us. Jul 7, 2015
Haven't climbed here in many years... Heard from a friend bolt were added? I believe this was done ground up on site. If so why were bolts added. Done with FA's OK? And whats with
10a rating? Jun 28, 2015
Lurker
Verdi, NV
  5.10a PG13
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
  5.10a PG13
New titanium glue-in bolts. May want to stick-clip the first one. Oct 14, 2014
millz
Canon CIty!
millz   Canon CIty!
fun corner! gets really tricky right before you can grab the top edge to traverse left. could only find one hanger anchor directly above climb and had to run 30ft or so of webbing to a random anchor ontop of the rock. you should hang anchor over edge to avoid rope drag. Dec 5, 2011