All Locations > Colorado > Keystone a.k.a.… > Loveland Pass Area > Falling Rock Wall

Voluntary Castration

Name: Voluntary Castration
Rating: 2.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Falling Rock Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Echolocation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Voluntary Castration S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wet Feet T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
GPS:	39.62772, -105.90867
FA:	Alex Morano
Page Views:	67 total · 9/month
Shared By:	George Bracksieck on Jul 7, 2025
Admins:	Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

VC is an interesting climb. Unless you’re tall, the reach move above the third bolt is harder than the guidebook rating of 5.7. To reach the big high hold, I had to pull hard on an intermediate crimp. Smart routefinding takes the leader from one side of the bolt line to the other.

Protection

Seven bolts to an anchor with chains. I slung the base of a small conifer to tame one runout. I used a Kong Panic to clip the last bolt from its left, where the fall potential was about 25 feet.

Edit: Alex added two more bolts.