Consolation

Consolation is an absolute classic climb and a must-do for anyone climbing in the area. It offers varied climbing, from slab to stemming corners, roof pulls, and a perfect traverse with awesome exposure this climb really has it all.

Note: while it is 5.8, it is definitely old school. I thought the grade was pretty fair, but a number of the pitches involve fairly committing climbing and it is fairly easy to get off route if you don't come prepared. Would highly advise looking at the route from a distance so you have a strong idea of your line (Incredibly easy to see on your drive in). Would not suggest this for a new/modern 5.8 leader.

P1: 5.8, 35m. Climb up the well protected groove following mostly good jugs (some loose rock may be present) to the bolted belay by the lone tree.

P2: 5.7, 40m. You can go right or left here. Left variation is 5.6 and appeared to be mostly loose uninteresting rock. Right is oldschool 5.7 and poorly protected off the belay but protects well at the crux (stem/roof pull at the top) and makes for a lot more fun climbing. Belay at the bolted station on a good ledge. 

P3: 5.7, 20m: Follow a diagonal break up and left towards an obvious corner. When you reach the corner, avoid the first belay if you are looking for easier climbing and continue up and right to a second bolted belay up and right for 5m to a second bolted belay on a good ledge. 

 (Note: After leaving belay a better option for this pitch is to take the steepest corner up and left for 10m to reach a crack that splits the headwall above. Take this crack, which offers good finger/hand locks (5.8) for 10m directly to the second belay. Also note the line of bolts directly above the first belay to the left is for Prize Fight (p4). This pitch goes at 10a, and is the line we personally opted for. Would highly recommend it as it is extremely well bolted, and leads directly to the next belay, Also makes the climb a lot more interesting!

P4: 5.7, 30m. Traverse up and right to gain easier ground or take one of the variations mentioned above. 

P5: 5.7 or 5.8, 30m. From the belay , move leftward up onto a grassy ledge that leads up and left to a diagonal break which angles left (5.7) onto the buttress. Climb up the buttress direct on rolling ground to a ledge and a new ring bolt belay.

P6: 5.8, 30m. Hands down one of the best pitches on this route and probably the reason you're here! From the belay move slightly up and left to gain a footrail which traverses left for aprox 10-15m to a steep arete. 

Note: the guide book suggests a downclimb when arriving at the arete. do NOT do this unless you are keen with a 10-15m runout, there is absolutely nowhere to plug gear on this downclimb furthermore, once you downclimb you will be forced to regain the belay ledge by climbing 5m up loose unprotected rock.  Instead, from the arete climb up a short step to gain another small foot ledge, traverse around this corner with reasonable pro and make a short downclimb to a hidden belay.

P7: 5.8, 35m. Another superb pitch. From the belay move up and right with some difficulty to regain the arete. Continue to a corner then move up and left slightly to climb a shallow groove, or climb directly past a piton to a small roof with a second piton to the top and a ring-bolt belay (reccomended) This corner takes a ton of gear, and has an awesome little squeeze at the end (crux).

Descent: With two 60m ropes (preffered) Make 4 rappels from the last ring bolt belay which you end on.

Rap 1: Rap 30m straight down to ring bolts on p5 of heavy weight contender. 

Rap 2: From p5 it is 57m to ring bolts of p3 of heavy weight contender, which is straight down and then slightly to the right. 

Rap 3: From p3 of heavyweight rap 50m to p1 of heavy weight contender

Rap 4: 50m from top of p1 heavy weight contender to ground. 

Approach via the Consolation Approach Trail. This is on the right side of the access gully, below and slightly to the right of the climb. Start about 10m left of the top of a scree-cone below a shallow groove that leads to a ledge 35m above with a stand a lone tree (very obvious from below).

Note: the original approach beta references an orange bolt 10m off the ground which is no longer there. 

Guidebook suggests gear to #4 though I never found any use for a 4. Protects very well with 0.2 - #3 doubles with 1-3. Small to large nuts. Several alpines and a few sport draws will suffice.