Type: Trad, Aid, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 38.4463, -109.58882
FA: BK and JW
Page Views: 97 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on May 11, 2025 · Updates
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1:

Starting on the towers west side, climb up through two tunnels and some chimneys to the notch on the south side. Gear anchor. 5.7 100’

Pitch 2:

Climb on top of a big block that leads back left (west) to a ledge on the west side. Optional intermediate belay here.  Continue up three bolts to a pecker placement or a two lobe cam placement.  Follow the crack above to a nice big ledge.  Gear anchor.  5.6 A1 80’

Pitch 3: climb the obvious crack above the ledge.  Switch cracks to the left with the help of a bolt.  Continue up until the crack peters out.(There is a natural hole here in the crack that a #3 or 4 angle would probably fit great, but I didn’t have one.) Free climb left a few moves to another crack.  Follow this until the rock deteriorates and clip a bolt.  High step off the bolt to reach the lip above.  Climb out of your aiders and mantle onto the summit.  5.9 C2 100’

Descent: 

Rappel 130’ into the notch on the south side.  Then we down climbed the first pitch, but you could easily sling one of the many big blocks if you wanted to set up a rappel.  

Location Suggest change

Start on the west side of the tower.

Protection Suggest change

1x 5

2x .2, 4

3x .3-3

Stoppers

One #3 pecker?

Tat for the summit

Photos

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