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All Locations >
Colorado
> S Platte
> Wonderland
> Wonderland (Roped)
> Lucy's (Roped)
> Almost Heaven
Loco Motive
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Almost Heaven
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Arch Nemesis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Be Like Lee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big and Tal S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Big Flake O' Rock T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep End, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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God Against All S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gold Trees S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Golden God S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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How Far Is Heaven S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Loco Motive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Modal Soul S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Natural Arch T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scenic Solitude S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Solar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Take Me Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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To A God Unknown S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.40039, -105.39639 |
| FA: | Vasya Vorotnikov, EB: TW, AR, VV |
| Page Views: | 150 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tal M on Mar 25, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property and Visual Impact
Details
NEW UPDATE: 5/25/26
Access to Crossons (the ghost town) is now CLOSED. I’m working on figuring this out with the local land owners but please respect all of the new signage and do not trespass on the private property. Access to the Ghost Town Crag is still fully above-board.
Additionally, the tyrolean to access the crag was chopped (not by the land owners, they were also mad to see it chopped), so be prepared to wade the river multiple times or bushwhack in from above.
—-
The crags near the river and ghost town in Wonderland see significant traffic from other user groups. This section of the north fork of the South Platte is a world-class whitewater run, and the ghost town sees significant foot traffic from users coming to see it and camp in the campsites along the river. In fact, climbers are likely the **smallest** user group in this region. Please, **do not leave project draws, permadraws, tick marks, or anything else to increase visual impact**. While this area is a playground, it's not just yours - please be respectful and work to always leave things better than you found it.
Additionally, just north of the river, as well as a few spots just south of the river, as well as the ghost town itself are all private property. Please, do not wander around without doing some research to ensure you're not trespassing on private property.
Access to Crossons (the ghost town) is now CLOSED. I’m working on figuring this out with the local land owners but please respect all of the new signage and do not trespass on the private property. Access to the Ghost Town Crag is still fully above-board.
Additionally, the tyrolean to access the crag was chopped (not by the land owners, they were also mad to see it chopped), so be prepared to wade the river multiple times or bushwhack in from above.
—-
The crags near the river and ghost town in Wonderland see significant traffic from other user groups. This section of the north fork of the South Platte is a world-class whitewater run, and the ghost town sees significant foot traffic from users coming to see it and camp in the campsites along the river. In fact, climbers are likely the **smallest** user group in this region. Please, **do not leave project draws, permadraws, tick marks, or anything else to increase visual impact**. While this area is a playground, it's not just yours - please be respectful and work to always leave things better than you found it.
Additionally, just north of the river, as well as a few spots just south of the river, as well as the ghost town itself are all private property. Please, do not wander around without doing some research to ensure you're not trespassing on private property.
Description
Follows the left side of the boulder. Execute the same start boulder problem for Big Flake O' Rock to get to the hands-free pod, engage your chakras, and start a climb with very few respectable rests to the anchor. Work left to a up pretty reasonably sized crimps, sidepulls, gastons, and pinches that all have relatively atrocious friction, until you hit the big sloping rails that have shockingly even worse friction. Keep moving up (and now, right) before encountering a last boulder problem to the anchors.
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