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Routes in Chimney Butte
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Chump of Chimney Butte, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dishpile T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Doodlebugger (AKA Standard Route) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duke of Chimney Butte, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Flaky McFlakerson TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Monkey Board T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Well Sniffer TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Worm TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wrong Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 47.92742, -102.84008 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 40 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Backwards Eric on Mar 13, 2025 |
| Admins: |
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Access Issue:
Details
As of September 2020, the US Forest Service has requested that all climbing activity ceases in the Blue Buttes region (this includes Chimney Butte). The US Forest Service acknowledges that the Blue Buttes hold spiritual significance to the Three Affiliated Tribes of North Dakota (Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara). A dialogue has begun to work on getting access back. However, please refrain from climbing here until further notice.
Description
About 10 feet of fun, challenging, overhanging finger crack followed by 40 feet of soft sandstone, lichen-covered nightmare. Finishes with a smooth, acute dihedral. Actually kind of fun if you embrace the delicate climbing nature of it.
I only top-rope soloed it, and that seems like a good way to do it: much safer to have no belayer below you as you pull off a lot of soft flakes.
For top rope anchor I found a few anchor points with .4 through 1 sized cams a ways over the top (there weren't T-posts setup for this one).
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