How to Train Your Dragon

Two pitches comprise the route, and the one feature they share is that the difficulty slowly ramps up from start to finish.

Pitch 1, M3 23 meters (75 feet). In good conditions, enjoy undulating rampy steps that alternate between positive horizontal rock edges, frozen moss and turf, and ice and névé sticks. 3 widely spaced bolts can be safely supplemented by several gear placements. 

Belay at the small but comfortable ledge at the base of the first steep rock from a vertically offset multipitch anchor. Unless you have an 80 meter rope, you'll rap from here, as well.

Pitch 2, M6 20 meters (65 feet). Three distinct steps will take you to the top. Each step presents engaging climbing that rewards thoughtful footwork. 

Belayers: stay alert, particularly at the start of the third step, as the ledge to start this steep portion is large enough you'll want to be extra mindful of how much slack you're paying out. 7 bolts and a few gear placements protect the pitch.

Another vertically offset multipitch anchor with rap rings will serve as belay and rappel station.

Descent: Rap the route. Walk off is possible, but not advised.

Rope: 60 or 70 meters will do the trick. A single 80 meter can get you down from the top with stretch and a bit of easy down climbing, but climbing as a single long pitch is not ideal.

Season/Conditions: FA was done on a cold day with minimal snow. Abundant, very comfortable frozen turf sticks and a bit of ice. Ideal conditions will be found with additional snow and ice. In warmer temperatures many days after the most recent snow, it's recommended to avoid the route and wait for better conditions.

Protection: Care was taken to place protection bolts to balance the tension between being close enough to be usable, but without being readily obscured by snow and ice. In heavy winter conditions, some bolts and gear placements may not be visible or usable. Bolts on pitch 1 are all on the left side of the groove. Pitch 2 has left and right side bolts. Bring some short screws in icy conditions.

On the looker's right side of the wall, just left of the prominent buttress, a mossy (and hopefully, icy) weakness rises through increasingly steeper steps.

Bolts and gear to 3". Bring 10 quickdraws and three or four shoulder-length runners. A few screws in icy conditions.