A Fools Errand

A Fools Errand is a bolted dry-tool route with alpine-like DNA following a deep fissure splitting the Sky Wall. Every pitch is unique, providing a kaleidoscope of terrain and technique - an odyssey through bad and good rock, desperate scratchy slab and pumpy overhanging juggary.. oh, and a tight squeeze chimney. The rock quality improves after p3. Without snow or frozen dirt on the ramps and ledges, you will encounter loose derbis and sketchy top-outs. Still awaiting FFA. 

Pitch 1 - The Drain M7, 20m. 12 bolts.
A short boulder problem leads to easy slab climbing. A line of closely spaced bolts will be found on the right side of the drain. Use alpine draws on bolts 2 through 6 to reduce rope drag further up the pitch. The slab steepens to near-vertical climbing on tiny edges and complex movement - the rock quality improves as it steepens. Continue up a techy bulge, sometimes with a smear of ice, and into a recess below an imposing overhang; then, traverse left on a rotten ledge to reach the anchor. 

Variation: M7-8, 30m
Midway throuigh pitch 1, just after the route begins to steepen, a line of bolts branch off to the right. After several technical face moves on thin edges, this variation ascends an overhanging crack through chossy rock. Anchors will be found a few body lengths above the last bolt. 16 bolts total for this pitch.

Pitch 2 - The Bypass M7+, 15m. 6 bolts.
Hard, thin face moves give way to a delicate thin flake on a slightly overhanging white face. Don't break the flake. Good luck with the feet! Get established onto the grassy ledge at the top of the face and traverse right - 2 bolts protect the airy traverse. Continue up the rubbly bench a short distance to the belay bolts in the back of the small cave. 

Pitch 3 - The Cave M6, 15m. 5 bolts.
A cave boulder problem with tricky feet. 3 bolts will get you out of the cave - the first bolt is to keep the rope out of the way. After getting established on the ramp above the cave, clip a bolt on the wall above then traverse up and right on a ramp. Belay anchors will be found on the right side of a deep corner chimney.

Pitch 4 - The Corner M5, 20m. 9 bolts.
A beautiful corner chimney pitch with great rock! Squeeze through the skinny section or stay on the outside - both are fun. The chimney relaxes into a groove-like feature until the bolted belay is reached on the right side of the groove under a massive roof.

Pitch 5 - The Roof M7, 20m. 9 bolts.
A wild corner roof offwidth and blank side wall! Big moves between wedged chockstones in the roof crack, and next-to-nothing foot holds on the side wall will get you through the overhang and into the chimney above. After a few body lengths, exit out the left side of the chimney to reach a big ledge and a bolted belay. 

Pitch 6 - The Headwall M6, 30m
You're now out of the confines of the deep fissure and below a steep headwall. Gently overhung face climbing, big moves, and a bit of pump leads to parallel seams and airy movement on a steep slab. Belay at the bolted belay anchor on a comfortable ledge.

Traverse right 10m on the ledge to reach the P6 belay.

Pitch 7 - The Last Pitch M6, 20m
The cherry on top! Excellent stone and cool movement up a steep, bullet-hard  shield. A corner crack, a layback, hidden pockets, and thin seams all come together for the last best pitch of the route! Belay from a bolted anchor at the top.

DESCEND - Two raps to the big ledge at the base of p6. Walk the ledge around the corner and to the west until you can scramble down short steps and scree slopes to reach the road. Or, rappel the entire route.

Sky Wall

10 quickdraws. 4 alpine draws. Anchor material of your choosing for offset Metolius rap hangers. 70m rope. All pitches are possible without ice. Fully bolted.