Harvard Sugar Scandal

This is the only pure sport route on the wall.

Climb straight up to the first bolt or start on California Flake (easier) to gain a short right-angling hand crack that leads to a pod with holds in the back.  Continue up under the large roof, clip an out-of-sight bolt above the roof, then pull through the roof to a good ledge.  (It is also possible to step left to join California Flake then back right to the good ledge.)  Clip bolts for the Bolt Ladder up the thin left-hand flake (crux) to join a thin right-angling crack to a big pod, leaving the Bolt Ladder bolts.  Climb up and right out of the pod to a bolt (several variations exist here, generally its easier the further right you go).  At the bolt, trend up and left through cool huecos on great rock to a final bolt.  It is possible to climb right or left of this last bolt.  Both are fun, but I prefer going left of the last bolt, straight up the tallest part of the headwall on mind-blowing huecos.

Start to the right of California Flake on a line of bolts leading up to a right-angling crack to a big roof.

10 draws plus 2 more for the anchor, more if you want to clip more Bolt Ladder bolts