Scalpel
V7 YDS 7A+ Font PG13
| Type: | Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 39.39143, -105.37358 |
| FA: | Jordan Jennings |
| Page Views: | 192 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tal M on Dec 16, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Scalpel is a future all-time classic. It ascends the laser-cut, 50º overhanging arete. "How is this V7? This arete is pretty juggy", you say to yourself. "[CENSORED]", you say to yourself, encountering the crux 20 moves up, a mere couple feet from the top, above a ramp you wish was a lot flatter of a landing.
While this is a long boulder problem, you do have a boulder that follows it for its length that keeps the fall length pretty short; however, a fall at the crux could prove bad with some bad luck and pad placement. My recommendation is a Blubber pad on the slab below (a little V0 in its own right for those looking for one) and to own the fall and baseball slide down the Blubber to your pads below. Trying to fight the fall and step down instead typically makes the situation much, much worse.
Start as low as you can. I don't believe a "true" sit start has been done. Use more of a crouched stand-start from the slightly better hand holds. The problem isn't over until you're on the true knifeblade point at the top of the boulder.



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