Type: Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
GPS: 39.39143, -105.37358
FA: Jordan Jennings
Page Views: 192 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tal M on Dec 16, 2024 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Scalpel is a future all-­time classic. It ascends the laser-cut, 50º overhanging arete. "How is this V7? This arete is pretty juggy", you say to yourself. "[CENSORED]", you say to yourself, encountering the crux 20 moves up, a mere couple feet from the top, above a ramp you wish was a lot flatter of a landing.

While this is a long boulder problem, you do have a boulder that follows it for its length that keeps the fall length pretty short; however, a fall at the crux could prove bad with some bad luck and pad placement. My recommendation is a Blubber pad on the slab below (a little V0 in its own right for those looking for one) and to own the fall and baseball slide down the Blubber to your pads below. Trying to fight the fall and step down instead typically makes the situation much, much worse.

Start as low as you can. I don't believe a "true" sit start has been done. Use more of a crouched stand-start from the slightly better hand holds. The problem isn't over until you're on the true knifeblade point at the top of the boulder.

Location Suggest change

It ascends the very, very obvious, laser cut arete in the middle of the Sharp Instruments right against the base of the larger formation.

Protection Suggest change

To really sew it up, I'd say bring 3 pads and a Blubber, but the FA was done with a singular pad, so YMMV. I would say a big single pad (BD Mondo or similar) and a Blubber is fairly sane (as a weanie).

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