Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 40.65299, -111.806
FA: Wasatch Mountain Club
Page Views: 62 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 20, 2024
Admins: Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Description Suggest change

Number 15!!! 

This was supposed to be the hardest of the numbered routes on Pete's Rock. It isn't the hardest for me, but still pretty tough. It's definitely in the top 4. You can still faintly see the large number 15 that was cleaned off about 20 years ago at the base.

Look up for a right angling flake crack system about ten feet off the ground. This route starts just to the left of that flake. Climb through some of the holds on The Standard Traverse. When you hit the small roof, clip two pitons to the right and then a small knifeblade straight up. Climb straight above the knifeblade. Don't skip clipping any of the pitons. There's no gear without them and you'll quickly be doing a tough 5.10 crux and reachy moves. Once your feet are level with the knifeblade piton, there's a nice horn to sling for pro.

Once your feet are near the horn sling, there's the only bolt out right. Clip it. If you climb to the right of the bolt, it's easier, but a little runout. If you climb to the left of the bolt, it's a little harder and a fairly safe fall. Either way, it's the crux of the climb and quite pumpy and not a small fall.

After the crux the holds are nice and there's a great 1.75" cam (green) in a horizontal. from here to the top is pure pleasure climbing 5.9 or less. I placed another sling and a 1" cam in another horizontal. 

It's a little runout from here to the anchors. Right before you pull up onto the ledge with the anchors, you'll see the original single anchor piton to your right. Clip it for nostalgia and you never know.

Location Suggest change

The right side of Pete's Rock. See topo for exact location.

Protection Suggest change

Quickdraws and 2' and 3' slings. Cams from .5" to 2" Maybe a set of nuts.

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